Discovery at the Mosque

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Location Coordinates:
23°35'02"N, 58°23'21"E
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Muscat, Oman

     We arrived in Oman late in the evening on a Tuesday, but considering our bodies had just endured roughly sixteen hours of flying time spread over two calendar days and ten time zones, time of day seemed relatively unimportant. Our daughter was there, waiting for her travel-weary parents to emerge from the uncomplicated Omani immigration area at Muscat International Airport. We maneuvered our way through the swarming horde of men offering baggage assistance or taxi rides, loaded ourselves into our daughter's car, and headed east into the city. Passing through the city at this time of night offered little in the way of sightseeing, but as my senses had already been running on overdrive the lack of visual stimulation was actually a comfort. We checked into our hotel and headed for the lounge where our daughter outlined an itinerary that guaranteed a comprehensive introduction to Oman and its people. First up for the next morning was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.

     As a westerner and an American Christian, I felt anxious about visiting such a grand representation of Islam right off the bat. I knew so little about the faith other than media reports about extremist activities. I certainly did not want to unknowingly offend anyone. But our daughter assured us that non-Muslims were very welcome to visit the Mosque, and in fact were encouraged to do so during established visiting hours. Additionally, the primary form of Islam practiced in Oman is Ibadi, which is characterized by moderation and tolerance of other views and religions.

     Being respectful of Islamic traditions is paramount, but quite simple. Visitors should maintain a quiet demeanor, meaning don't brashly run about the grounds or talk loudly inside.  Removal of shoes in interior spaces is required, and all visitors should dress conservatively, covering their shoulders and knees at a minimum. Long-sleeved shirts and pants for men, and modest, long-sleeved shirts and pants or long skirts past the ankle are best for women. Women should cover their hair with a scarf. Other than removal of shoes, these guidelines are essentially similar to visiting the cathedrals of Europe.

     After making sure we were appropriately attired we walked to the visitors entrance, where we were greeted by smiling attendants who wished us a most pleasant visit to the Mosque. My first visual impressions were the immaculately groomed and lush landscaping, fountains and striking architecture. There is a domed men's prayer hall and large primary minaret with four flanking smaller minarets. I went nuts with the camera, trying desperately to capture what I was seeing while imagining how beautiful the scene would be in early morning or dusk lighting.

Wood carving on walls of the women's prayer hall

     Our first interior stop was the smaller women's prayer hall. Inside this space I was most intrigued by the intricate wood carving on the walls and doors. Moving beyond the women's prayer hall we followed symmetrical covered hallways toward a courtyard area known as a sahn. From here we ventured on into the men's prayer hall.

     The men's prayer hall is magnificently intricate, yet quite simple at the same time. The patterned walls, domed ceiling, glorious chandeliers and the immense (second largest in the world) and colorful prayer carpet take your breath away in their beauty. But the space is completely open, without furnishings, making the room ornate without being crowded. We caught the tail end of a guide's presentation, and when he released his group afterwards he walked with us as we exited. His amiable personality and interest in us was apparent immediately, and when he found out we were from Minneapolis he was excited to tell us he had traveled to our town and liked it very much. He thanked us for visiting the Mosque and Oman, understanding that many Americans are reluctant to venture to his part of the world. He encouraged us to act as ambassadors for Omani hospitality to our friends back home, and sincerely invited us to his own home for coffee and dates (a standard tradition in the Arab world). We graciously declined, but found this tradition repeated many times during the remainder of our week in Oman.

Central chandelier, men's prayer hall

     After saying our goodbyes to the guide we were greeted by women in a garden offering coffee, dates and water along with information on Islam (only if interest was expressed by the visitor). We sat for a few minutes drinking our coffees and water and chatting with the women about typical tourist-meets-local subjects. It was so...normal, for lack of a better word. I was so enthralled with the people and surroundings that my family needed to practically drag me to the car before visitor hours ended.

     As we drove away I actually felt foolish for being so nervous about this trip. The Mosque was fascinating, the people were charming, and the knowledge I learned was eye-opening. The choice of the Grand Mosque as a first stop in our tour was perfect, as it enabled me to fully relax and be open and excited about all the experiences that were ahead.

Inside the men's prayer hall