Wadi Dayqah Dam

View from the Wadi Dayqah Dam visitor center

Location Coordinates:
23°04'56"N, 58°50'56"E
Wadi Dayqah Dam
Governate of Muscat, Oman

In recent years the Sultanate of Oman has made considerable improvements in their infrastructure and transportation systems. We were able to witness two grand examples of this modernization as we drove eastwardly from the capital city of Muscat along the new Route 17, which is also known as the Muscat-Sur Coastal route. My understanding is that prior to the recent completion of this route the drive from Muscat to Sur was significantly longer time wise, and not without other challenges. But now it is smooth sailing. After negotiating some late-stage construction projects on the

Wadi Dayqah Dam

outskirts of Muscat we sped along the route through some very impressive landscapes, with mountains on one side of the road and, eventually, the Gulf of Oman on the other side. Nearing the town of Quriyat we left the main highway and traveled along a smaller road past herds of wandering goats to the entrance of the Wadi Dayqah Dam, a water supply project completed just within the last few years (2012).

Wadi Dayqah reservoir

In Arabic the word "wadi" refers to a valley, or, a riverbed that is dry, except when it isn't. The "isn't" part is reflective of when rainfall or some other natural or man made event causes water to flow down the watercourse. The Wadi Dayqah Dam was constructed to capture water within the wadi as a means to supply irrigation and drinking water for the local area as well as the city of Muscat.

Grounds overlooking Wadi Dayqah reservoir

One of the most notable things I found during my visit to Oman was how superbly everything was maintained, and Wadi Dayqah Dam provided yet another striking example. True, the dam is new, which may have something to do with that impression. However, I'd be willing to bet that if I visited this place again in twenty years it would look as neat and trimmed as it is now. Just off the parking area is an expansive and nicely landscaped space for taking in the view of the dam's reservoir. You can also stop off at a small restaurant, or seek shelter from the sun at one of the covered benches.

The blue-green color of the water makes for a dramatic contrast to the brown and rugged hills surrounding the reservoir.

Tablets seemingly carved from the stone wall

On one side of the wadi below the dam is an interesting geological feature that sort of looks like two tablets carved and set apart from the stone hillside. On the opposite side is a small village and a palm-filled oasis that I am sure might be a popular place during the really hot months when the temperature routinely climbs to around 120° F (50° C). Thankfully it was only around 80° to 85°F the day we were there.

Village and oasis in the wadi

After seeing the sights outside we found the visitor center. It was a weekday, so the number of visitors was light. In fact, we were the only visitors in the center at the time. After milling about for a few minutes we were approached by a young man sharply dressed in a dishdasha (ankle-length, robe-like garment) and mussar (the formal, or business headdress) worn by Omani men.  He greeted us warmly and asked if he could answer any questions. After answering a couple of our basic questions he was anxious to do more, so he led us on a private mini-tour of the facility, explaining much of the technical aspects of the dam and reservoir. When my wife asked if there was a brochure available in English he seemed genuinely apologetic that there was not. Not willing to let us leave without English language information, he asked us to wait and shortly returned with not one, but two large English hardbound books about the dam from their operational office. These were clearly reference books full of detailed information, and would likely command a hefty price in any gift store in a similar facility. When we attempted to return the books the man refused and said they were our gifts, at no charge. Once again I stood in disbelief at the incredible hospitality of the Omanis. After thanking the man profusely we began making our way toward the exit. The man, along with several of his colleagues, walked with us and thanked us for our visit and encouraged our return visit soon.

Bolstered by yet another example of Omani friendliness and generosity, we hit the road, traveling the same way back to Route 17 and on to our next adventure..

Evening Stroll in the Muttrah District

Location Coordinates:
23°37'N, 58°34'E
Muttrah District
Muscat, Oman

As our first full day in Oman moved from afternoon toward evening we set off for a sunset stroll along the corniche in the Muttrah District of Muscat. We had spent the earlier part of the afternoon learning about historic weapons and dress prevalent in Omani culture at the Bait al Zubair museum. Just a short drive from the museum is the corniche, a wide and winding road and walkway hugging the port's shore. Walking along this route would take us to our last planned stop of the day, the lively Muttrah Souq (a marketplace sometimes spelled  souk). Afternoons in Oman are quiet due to the weather typically being at its very hottest during this time of day. While this particular day was very comfortable temperature-wise, the city still had a feel of coming back to life as we set off on our walk. The traffic thickened and sidewalks filled as evening started to approach.

The Sultan's yacht and a dhow boat

As the Muscat Port is a primary commercial port for Oman there were many ships and boats anchored in the harbor. Without question, the most notable ship was the massive Al Said, the personal yacht of Oman's Sultan Qaboos. The Al Said dwarfed the dhow boats and other personal watercraft that dotted the harbor. The contrast between the sleek and modern yacht and the dhow boats that have likely looked the same for hundreds of years was pretty remarkable.

Along the corniche 

Along the corniche groups of men began to congregate, sitting and smoking and no doubt filling each other in on their day's activities. Women, often with small children in tow, made their way toward the souq to stock up on whatever it was they needed that day. It was now after 5:00 pm and the souq had just re-opened for the evening. (Like many other businesses and activities, the souq is typically closed during the hours of 1:00 pm and 4:00 or 5:00 pm.) I had no interest in shopping, but I was curious to see the cramped stalls, dark walkways, and the wide array of colorful merchandise being sold. I'm sure that historically the souq was the go-to marketplace for residents. But in today's modern Muscat it might be that the souq is less practical for residents and more relevant to travelers looking for the excitement of bartering for any number of iconic Omani and Arabian items. On our visit it appeared pashmina scarves were the vendors common product of choice to lure people into their small shops with hopes that additional treasures would be purchased. At first it was unsettling to be assertively hailed by so many sellers offering the same thing, but eventually it became comical. It was a bit like walking down a carnival midway at the state fair, with a difference being the smell of corn dogs and popcorn was replaced by a heavy frankincense aroma (which, by the way, smells great!).

Entrance to the Muttrah Souq

It was just about sunset by the time we emerged from the din of the souq. It was too early for dinner, but our stomachs - trying valiantly to make sense of the crazy time change impact - were in need of some sustenance. Our daughter suggested we find something to snack on as a holdover until dinner. She set off to find shawarma, one of her favorite local foods, which is similar to a small Greek gyro. She located a fast food joint with outside tables and ordered up three chicken shawarmas. While these were being prepared I set off with the camera to do my best to capture the pulse of the area in sunset light. Back at the table the shawarmas arrived just as the sunset call to prayer came from the loudspeakers at the nearby mosque.

Along the corniche

When I've heard the Islamic call to prayer in movies or other media, I've usually felt uneasy. Perhaps Americans have come to associate this call as somehow threatening. But hearing it in person sitting at a sidewalk table snacking on a savory Arabian specialty and watching locals and tourists easily intermingling put everything in a new perspective. It wasn't threatening at all. It was pleasing. And from then on I was kind of disappointed when I was out of earshot from a mosque during one of the five daily calls.

Open air dining near the Muttrah Souq

We wrapped up the day dining at a beach side restaurant at a table in the sand just a few yards from the surf. I could in no way have anticipated that setting in my faulty preconceptions about what I'd find in the Middle East. So far this trip was providing one pleasant surprise after another.

Discovery at the Mosque

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Location Coordinates:
23°35'02"N, 58°23'21"E
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Muscat, Oman

     We arrived in Oman late in the evening on a Tuesday, but considering our bodies had just endured roughly sixteen hours of flying time spread over two calendar days and ten time zones, time of day seemed relatively unimportant. Our daughter was there, waiting for her travel-weary parents to emerge from the uncomplicated Omani immigration area at Muscat International Airport. We maneuvered our way through the swarming horde of men offering baggage assistance or taxi rides, loaded ourselves into our daughter's car, and headed east into the city. Passing through the city at this time of night offered little in the way of sightseeing, but as my senses had already been running on overdrive the lack of visual stimulation was actually a comfort. We checked into our hotel and headed for the lounge where our daughter outlined an itinerary that guaranteed a comprehensive introduction to Oman and its people. First up for the next morning was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.

     As a westerner and an American Christian, I felt anxious about visiting such a grand representation of Islam right off the bat. I knew so little about the faith other than media reports about extremist activities. I certainly did not want to unknowingly offend anyone. But our daughter assured us that non-Muslims were very welcome to visit the Mosque, and in fact were encouraged to do so during established visiting hours. Additionally, the primary form of Islam practiced in Oman is Ibadi, which is characterized by moderation and tolerance of other views and religions.

     Being respectful of Islamic traditions is paramount, but quite simple. Visitors should maintain a quiet demeanor, meaning don't brashly run about the grounds or talk loudly inside.  Removal of shoes in interior spaces is required, and all visitors should dress conservatively, covering their shoulders and knees at a minimum. Long-sleeved shirts and pants for men, and modest, long-sleeved shirts and pants or long skirts past the ankle are best for women. Women should cover their hair with a scarf. Other than removal of shoes, these guidelines are essentially similar to visiting the cathedrals of Europe.

     After making sure we were appropriately attired we walked to the visitors entrance, where we were greeted by smiling attendants who wished us a most pleasant visit to the Mosque. My first visual impressions were the immaculately groomed and lush landscaping, fountains and striking architecture. There is a domed men's prayer hall and large primary minaret with four flanking smaller minarets. I went nuts with the camera, trying desperately to capture what I was seeing while imagining how beautiful the scene would be in early morning or dusk lighting.

Wood carving on walls of the women's prayer hall

     Our first interior stop was the smaller women's prayer hall. Inside this space I was most intrigued by the intricate wood carving on the walls and doors. Moving beyond the women's prayer hall we followed symmetrical covered hallways toward a courtyard area known as a sahn. From here we ventured on into the men's prayer hall.

     The men's prayer hall is magnificently intricate, yet quite simple at the same time. The patterned walls, domed ceiling, glorious chandeliers and the immense (second largest in the world) and colorful prayer carpet take your breath away in their beauty. But the space is completely open, without furnishings, making the room ornate without being crowded. We caught the tail end of a guide's presentation, and when he released his group afterwards he walked with us as we exited. His amiable personality and interest in us was apparent immediately, and when he found out we were from Minneapolis he was excited to tell us he had traveled to our town and liked it very much. He thanked us for visiting the Mosque and Oman, understanding that many Americans are reluctant to venture to his part of the world. He encouraged us to act as ambassadors for Omani hospitality to our friends back home, and sincerely invited us to his own home for coffee and dates (a standard tradition in the Arab world). We graciously declined, but found this tradition repeated many times during the remainder of our week in Oman.

Central chandelier, men's prayer hall

     After saying our goodbyes to the guide we were greeted by women in a garden offering coffee, dates and water along with information on Islam (only if interest was expressed by the visitor). We sat for a few minutes drinking our coffees and water and chatting with the women about typical tourist-meets-local subjects. It was so...normal, for lack of a better word. I was so enthralled with the people and surroundings that my family needed to practically drag me to the car before visitor hours ended.

     As we drove away I actually felt foolish for being so nervous about this trip. The Mosque was fascinating, the people were charming, and the knowledge I learned was eye-opening. The choice of the Grand Mosque as a first stop in our tour was perfect, as it enabled me to fully relax and be open and excited about all the experiences that were ahead.

Inside the men's prayer hall

Arabian Impressions

     I am a good traveler. I like seeing new and different things and experiencing diverse cultures. But, I must honestly admit I usually fall into the safe-and-comfortable as opposed to the no-holds-barred category when it comes to trips abroad. I'm all for stretching comfort zones, but within reason. And if credence is given to our sensationalistic media here in America, certain regions of the world can be viewed as places that go beyond comfort zone stretching to comfort zone destroying. So when circumstances recently arose that gave reason for us to travel to the Arabian Peninsula, specifically the Sultanate of Oman, I initially found myself completely closed to the idea. Truth be told, I was scared to death at the prospect of travel within the Middle East. Americans are perpetually bombarded with news of horrifying terrorist activities, political unrest, kidnappings, and other shocking events in this region of the world. But my wife and I decided to go anyway. And because we did I was able to learn firsthand that unconfirmed and biased impressions can be, and often are, completely wrong.

     Before we left I had worked myself into near frenzy. Our daughter, who recently relocated to Oman for a job opportunity, did all she could to reassure me my worries were unwarranted. But I remained resolute in my thoughts that we were doomed to all manner of mishap and danger. On the morning of our departure my anxiety level reached epic proportions, and I fell into more or less a walking coma prior to boarding the first of three flights that would transport us to the opposite side of the planet. Fortunately, the moments prior to that first flight would represent my lowest point of the journey. As travel progressed I found myself opening up more and more to the prospect of a cultural experience so extremely different from anything I'd previously encountered. And upon arrival in Oman my daughter's assurances played out precisely. To be sure, the surroundings were quite uniquely different, but the warmth of the Omani people and their hospitality was immediately evident. My apprehension was cast aside and I was able to have one of the most culturally enlightening journeys of my lifetime so far.   

     What follows is a series of entries illustrating places and events that were so unexpectedly pleasing that they have positively influenced my feelings toward Middle Eastern cultures forever. And isn't that the most successful outcome of travel? Placing yourself in new, and yes, sometimes frightful surroundings enables you to see things from an entirely new perspective. And the reward is an educated true understanding of cultures and history, an opening of yourself to things you could never have previously imagined. My Arabian adventure reminds me to not simply accept that reports of specific incidents are always representative of a whole. There is no denying that some regions in the Middle East are rife with conflict. But if you've an interest in a tolerant Middle Eastern culture that is anxious to share their country and customs with interested travelers, consider visiting the welcoming people of Oman.

Picking It Up Again...

Location Coordinates:

44°50'41"N, 93°31'18"W
Chanhassen, MN

     Five years ago this week I initiated The Right Latitude blog. It was a simple idea: Develop short articles about places I had visited in a manner that inspired others to seek out their own special spots, or Right Latitudes. I had a tremendously good time writing the articles and making supporting photos about places and things both widely known or not-so-known. But change is inevitable and life paths often take us in unforeseen directions. Shortly following the publication of my forty-seventh entry I found myself preparing to leave Minnesota and begin a new existence in a different part of the country. My momentum hit a wall.

     The San Francisco Bay area, our new location, certainly provided immense opportunity to continue seeking and writing about new adventures. But in an odd variation to Tony Bennett's famous song, I found I had left MY heart in Minnesota. My photography faltered, my writing ceased to exist, and the blog simply died as I drifted aimlessly through one sunny California day after the next.

     But never one to be a stranger, our old friend Mr. Change once more came calling, and I seized an opportunity to return to the Twin Cities and make the Land of 10,000 Lakes my home again. Now that I'm properly settled, I've dusted off the camera, found the long lost dictionary and thesaurus, and am keen to get back to exploring and writing about things that might be interesting along life's trail. My desire is unchanged from the original goal, which is to encourage readers to see that anything and anywhere has the potential to be something special to someone.

     Like many Minnesotans, we now split time between two homes, which will certainly aid in expanding my discoverable territory. So while many of my explorations will again focus on the Upper Midwest,  I will also be able to add findings in the Mid-South region as well as the occasional journey to locales more distant. It's been a long while since I went searching, and I'm charged up to get out there again. So I'm off to find some new Right Latitudes. Want to come along?

Full Day on Keweenaw Peninsula

Pebble beaches of Lake Superior

Location Coordinates:
Approximate -
47°15'N, 88°20'W
Keweenaw Peninsula,
Michigan

I'm good with maps. I'm not embarrassed to say that a good map can keep me entertained for hours. So when I travel I typically have thoroughly studied road layouts and geographic characteristics of wherever it is that I'm going. This aptitude is quite handy when I'm starting off to explore unfamiliar territory. But every now and again I have a slip-up. I miscalculate things such as the impact of two-lane highways or time spent at interesting sites along the path. Such was the case when a planned seven-hour scenic driving route turned into a twelve-hour express marathon.

Near Silver City, Michigan

The day began in Bayfield, Wisconsin with a goal of making Marquette, Michigan by early evening. A direct route is just over 200 miles, or about four to five hours of leisurely driving. But as I was circling Lake Superior, bypassing Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula seemed like cheating. Including a run up to Copper Harbor at the northern point of the peninsula only added another 165 miles while also keeping true to the circle lakeshore route. No sweat, right? But I was overlooking two key factors: (1) a trip like this, by design, isn't just about quickly getting from point A to point B, and (2) daylight is much shorter in October than in, say, late June.



Nee-Gaw-Nee-Gaw-Bow

 By mid-morning I was only as far as Wakefield, Michigan where I came across an imposing wood sculpture by Peter Wolf Toth. The twenty-foot Nee-Gaw-Nee-Gaw-Bow (which means "Leading Man") is one in a series of Toth sculptures honoring Native Americans. But Wakefield is inland, and I wanted to get back waterside for a lunch along the shore of Lake Superior. So, I diverted north from my car's GPS suggested route to the village of Silver City, Michigan. This area offered classic Great Lakes shoreline, with a pebble beach heavily decorated with driftwood, and was certainly worth the diversion. When my picnic lunch was complete I realized my actual progress was not keeping up with my planned progress. It was time to pick up the pace.

Keweenaw Snow-Mometer

I found my way back to the recommended route and on towards the city of Houghton. At Houghton I crossed over Portage Lake and into the town of Hancock. Somewhere between Hancock and Copper Harbor I came across a curiosity known as the Keweenaw Snow-mometer , a measuring gauge recording various years lake effect annual snow levels. I was astounded at the record 1978-1979 seasonal total of over 390 inches (yes, that's more than 32 feet of snow!).

Eagle Harbor Light - Eagle Harbor, Michigan

Nearing the northern reaches of the peninsula the road narrowed significantly and became quite curvy as it wound through the woods under a brilliant canopy of autumnal reds and oranges. After this grand scene, reaching the apex point of Copper Harbor felt somewhat anti-climatic. With no time to waste I double-backed slightly through the Eagle Harbor area where I discovered a great little lighthouse. It was here that I realized just how far off my timing had strayed from plan. It was already late afternoon with maybe just another hour or two of daylight. And I still had well over 100 miles to reach Marquette. By the time I arrived back in Houghton the sun was done, and I knew I'd have a scenery blackout for the remainder of this segment. But while I sacrificed fully seeing the whole route that day, at least I can proudly say I didn't take shortcuts on the grand Lake Superior Circle Tour.

Good Morning, Bayfield

Location Coordinates:
46°48'41"N
90°49'13"W
Bayfield, Wisconsin

Crowning the northern portion of the state of Wisconsin lies a triangular piece of land known as the Bayfield Peninsula. Jutting its way into the southern waters of Lake Superior, the peninsula consists of broad forests of deciduous trees such as maples, oaks, and birch along with coniferous stands of jack pine, spruce, and balsam fir. Here and there between the forests are open areas where well-maintained farms grace either side of Highway 13, the primary route which serves as a connector for the peninsula's small communities. It was here that I began my long anticipated Lake Superior Circle Tour when I turned north onto Highway 13 shortly after leaving the port cities of Duluth-Superior. The route was enhanced by the fact it appeared my timing was catching the fall color in this area at its peak. The reds and golds and oranges mixed in with the pines deep greens as I headed first in a northeasterly direction, and then in a southerly direction from the town of Red Cliff towards my first destination at Bayfield.

Years ago, long before I lived in proximity to this region, I had briefly passed through Bayfield and thought then the quaint community would be worth a return visit. I had remembered Bayfield as looking like a New England coastal community. But arriving on this trip, my thought was the town did not resemble New England, but instead was definitely reflective of the Great Lakes, just minus the ore boats. I checked into The Bayfield Inn , located right on the marina and lake shore, and set out to have a look around.

Promenade along the marina waterfront

After having strolled by some of the shops and a quick dinner at a local inn, I rounded out the day exploring the marina and taking in the view of nearby Madeline Island. By now the sun had set, and I soon found that on a weeknight in October, Bayfield is quiet. Really, really quiet. So quiet, in fact, that I felt my footsteps on the pavement were easily being heard and monitored by the townsfolk that had clearly settled snugly indoors for the night. Always wanting to fit in with the locals, I decided I'd better head back to my room. It was 7:00 pm. So much for Bayfield nightlife.

Sunrise over Madeline Island

The next morning I was up before the sun and grabbed the camera for a little sunrise photography. As the sun came over the horizon of Madeline Island lying to Bayfield's east I was treated to a beautiful unveiling of the picturesque community decked out in autumn splendor. Positioning myself in various spots along the marina I snapped away in the crisp morning air, and I felt invigorated by all the changing colors and moods as the sun made it's slow rise. I watched the first morning arrival of the Madeline Island Ferry from the island community of La Pointe, which is located about 2.5 miles across the lake from Bayfield. What a great way to start the day!

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore Visitor Center

It was then time to move on to the next segment of the circle tour. But before leaving Bayfield I stopped at the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore visitor center. I had not built in enough time on this trip to make the excursion to the Apostle Islands. That is a trip in and of itself. But the friendly staff at the visitor center gave me great information so that I could plan a return trip to focus just on the islands. And next spring I plan to do just that.