Evening Stroll in the Muttrah District

Location Coordinates:
23°37'N, 58°34'E
Muttrah District
Muscat, Oman

As our first full day in Oman moved from afternoon toward evening we set off for a sunset stroll along the corniche in the Muttrah District of Muscat. We had spent the earlier part of the afternoon learning about historic weapons and dress prevalent in Omani culture at the Bait al Zubair museum. Just a short drive from the museum is the corniche, a wide and winding road and walkway hugging the port's shore. Walking along this route would take us to our last planned stop of the day, the lively Muttrah Souq (a marketplace sometimes spelled  souk). Afternoons in Oman are quiet due to the weather typically being at its very hottest during this time of day. While this particular day was very comfortable temperature-wise, the city still had a feel of coming back to life as we set off on our walk. The traffic thickened and sidewalks filled as evening started to approach.

The Sultan's yacht and a dhow boat

As the Muscat Port is a primary commercial port for Oman there were many ships and boats anchored in the harbor. Without question, the most notable ship was the massive Al Said, the personal yacht of Oman's Sultan Qaboos. The Al Said dwarfed the dhow boats and other personal watercraft that dotted the harbor. The contrast between the sleek and modern yacht and the dhow boats that have likely looked the same for hundreds of years was pretty remarkable.

Along the corniche 

Along the corniche groups of men began to congregate, sitting and smoking and no doubt filling each other in on their day's activities. Women, often with small children in tow, made their way toward the souq to stock up on whatever it was they needed that day. It was now after 5:00 pm and the souq had just re-opened for the evening. (Like many other businesses and activities, the souq is typically closed during the hours of 1:00 pm and 4:00 or 5:00 pm.) I had no interest in shopping, but I was curious to see the cramped stalls, dark walkways, and the wide array of colorful merchandise being sold. I'm sure that historically the souq was the go-to marketplace for residents. But in today's modern Muscat it might be that the souq is less practical for residents and more relevant to travelers looking for the excitement of bartering for any number of iconic Omani and Arabian items. On our visit it appeared pashmina scarves were the vendors common product of choice to lure people into their small shops with hopes that additional treasures would be purchased. At first it was unsettling to be assertively hailed by so many sellers offering the same thing, but eventually it became comical. It was a bit like walking down a carnival midway at the state fair, with a difference being the smell of corn dogs and popcorn was replaced by a heavy frankincense aroma (which, by the way, smells great!).

Entrance to the Muttrah Souq

It was just about sunset by the time we emerged from the din of the souq. It was too early for dinner, but our stomachs - trying valiantly to make sense of the crazy time change impact - were in need of some sustenance. Our daughter suggested we find something to snack on as a holdover until dinner. She set off to find shawarma, one of her favorite local foods, which is similar to a small Greek gyro. She located a fast food joint with outside tables and ordered up three chicken shawarmas. While these were being prepared I set off with the camera to do my best to capture the pulse of the area in sunset light. Back at the table the shawarmas arrived just as the sunset call to prayer came from the loudspeakers at the nearby mosque.

Along the corniche

When I've heard the Islamic call to prayer in movies or other media, I've usually felt uneasy. Perhaps Americans have come to associate this call as somehow threatening. But hearing it in person sitting at a sidewalk table snacking on a savory Arabian specialty and watching locals and tourists easily intermingling put everything in a new perspective. It wasn't threatening at all. It was pleasing. And from then on I was kind of disappointed when I was out of earshot from a mosque during one of the five daily calls.

Open air dining near the Muttrah Souq

We wrapped up the day dining at a beach side restaurant at a table in the sand just a few yards from the surf. I could in no way have anticipated that setting in my faulty preconceptions about what I'd find in the Middle East. So far this trip was providing one pleasant surprise after another.