Milwaukee Avenue

Location Coordinates:

44°57'39" N, 93°14'24" W

Milwaukee Avenue, Minneapolis, Minnesota

When Chrys and I were preparing to move to Minneapolis we received a very good resource produced by the publishers of Mpls St. Paul magazine titled You Are Here: Minneapolis Saint Paul. This is one of those "insider guides" for new residents with lots of information and photographs covering the entire metro area. Being the historic preservation proponent that I am, one of the articles in the residential segment of the magazine caught my attention as it described a section of the Seward neighborhood of Minneapolis. Within this neighborhood is a pedestrian-only street known as Milwaukee Avenue that is listed on the National Register for Historic Places. After reading about it, I put this street on my must-explore list, and last week I hit the bike trail and rode over to this part of town.

According to wikipedia.com, Milwaukee Avenue, which is situated between 22nd and 23rd Avenues South, was formerly known as 22 1/2 Avenue until the early 1900s when the Milwaukee Avenue name was designated. This two-block street came to be when a real estate speculator saw a need for low-cost housing options for a population boom that occurred during the late 19th century. If you are interested in the neighborhood's history, Wikipedia offers great information at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milwaukee_Avenue_Historic_District.

What piqued my curiosity about Milwaukee Avenue was my idealized notion of the old-fashioned days of yore, where everyone knows each other and are tightly woven into their own little community. When I arrived, I parked my bike and gazed down the length of the two-blocks. In my mind I imagined a scene from 1900. I could see a worker coming home from a long day, stepping onto the front porch where his family greets him before they all go inside for the evening meal. Afterwards, the family comes outside to sit on the porch where the adults swap stories with their neighbors (sitting just a few feet away on their own front porch) while the children play together out front. It's a peaceful scene conjured up from my mind's vision of what used to be. Ah, yes -- but that was then. What about today? Well, while I didn't find the locale to be as trimmed and polished as some of the magazine photos portrayed, I did sense some of the charm that my imagination played out. A playground sits at the intersection of the two blocks where children can play within sight of their homes. There are no yards to speak of, but there are common areas filled with flower beds alive with spring blooms (those pictured) and a tree-lined grassy strip running down the center of the street. All in all, Milwaukee Avenue appears to be a pleasant place to live if you don't mind being exceedingly close to your neighbors and dealing with sightseers like me curious about a part of town representing days gone by. I'm not sure it completely lives up to that imaginary setting I laid out above, but my overall impression was that Milwaukee Avenue is a great example of how preservation of unique settings and architecture can find function and form in today's world.

Bogle Park

Location coordinates:
36°22'30"N, 94°13'00"W
Bogle Park, Bentonville, Arkansas

We all have our own personal ways to give ourselves a mood boost. Listening to a certain song, eating a favorite food, talking to a friend, exercising, and even herbs and vitamins can all have an elevating impact on our state of mind. For me, visiting my "happy places" is usually the most effective way to feel better. I have dozens of these refuges in locations far and wide, and I hope to write about most of them over the months and years to come. I recently stopped by one of my favorite spots while traveling back in Arkansas. It is a tiny oasis of superbly landscaped ground known as Bogle Park, inconspicuously tucked away in a quiet residential area of Bentonville, Arkansas.

Countless times my wife and I made a pilgrimage, with our Starbucks in hand, to sit in the swing under the pretty white gazebo and sort out problems or make future plans. Inspiration seemed to come easier as we sipped our coffee and listened to a softly falling rain on the gazebo roof, inhaled fragrant spring blooms, or watched slowly falling red and gold leaves in autumn. On most visits we took in the colorful display of flowers, plants, and ornamental trees in solitude, a little private escape from our everyday world. Other times the park would come alive with local people who came to shoot photographs of family or friends using the brilliant colors of the flowers as perfect backdrops. Nearly every attendee to the Bentonville High School prom includes a pre-prom stop at Bogle Park so proud parents can record this childhood rite of passage in a most agreeable setting.

Last weekend's stop at Bogle Park was somewhat poignant in the fact that some of the solutions my wife and I developed while sitting on that gazebo swing last spring resulted in the move north that now prevents us from visiting this particular "happy place" regularly. But that's ok. Life moves on and we garner new, more appropriate "happy places". I've located lots of terrific ones in my new hometown, and I use them regularly. If you don't have some places of your own where you can go to re-energize, I encourage you to go out and find a few. They're great for the soul, and much healthier than popping a "happy pill" to get you through the tough times.

Ozark Cats

Location coordinates:
36°18'38"N, 93°45'28"W
Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge,
Eureka Springs, Arkansas



     Imagine yourself in the beautiful Ozark hills on a pristine spring day. You decide to go for a walk. Meandering through verdant fields you admire the colorful wildflowers spread over the landscape. Stopping at the crest of a hill you gaze across the horizon noticing fuchsia-colored redbud trees and dogwoods with pink and white blooms dotting the countryside. A warm breeze pushes up against your face. Closing your eyes you listen to the sounds of the Ozarks: cattle are rustling in a pen not far away, a pair of dogs bark in the distance, a hawk screeches as it rides the rising air currents, a lion roars . . . what?? Yes, that's right - a lion roars. As peculiar as this sounds, it would likely describe the scene if you are walking near Highway 23 south of Eureka Springs, Arkansas.
     Last week I was in Arkansas sorting out some real estate business, and I decided to take a drive to Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge. This is a 500-acre sanctuary caring for neglected, abused, or otherwise unwanted "big cats". Lions, tigers, cougars, bobcats and leopards are the primary residents with a few bears and monkeys scattered in as well. Many of the cats find their way to TCWR when their misguided owners realize their once cute tiger cub that made for an attention-grabbing pet is now a 600 lb. beast that is considering enjoying them as a tasty lunch treat. (You really have to wonder about people sometimes.) The caring people of TCWR travel the country to rescue big cats from various bad situations, thus preventing these beautiful animals from being euthanized.
     This place is fascinating. Not only can you get closer to the cats than you can in most zoos, but an eager staff of interns, most with degrees in Zoology or Biology, mingle with visitors sharing specific stories about each animal. It is clear these cats are well cared for and loved. Their pens, which range from medium-sized to huge open fields depending on the cats age and/or health, are immaculate. The animals genuinely seem happy at TCWR. And why not? Caring keepers, all the chickens you can eat, clean surroundings, and open fields of lush vegetation in which to romp with playmates. If you can't be running the African savanna grasslands or the rainforests of Asia, Turpentine Creek seems a reasonable substitute for a big cat.
     If you're out and about in northwest Arkansas, drop in on my friend Bombay the tiger, and all the other cool cats at Turpentine Creek (http://www.turpentinecreek.org/). If you appreciate majestic cats you will love the experience. If you're not into big cats, then at least remember the facility if the crazy guy keeping a pet lion turns out to be your next door neighbor!

Red Wing: Preserved and Vibrant

Location coordinates:
44°33'56"N, 92°32'05"W
Red Wing, Minnesota


     There is a scene from the 1985 movie Back to the Future where Michael J. Fox's character, Marty McFly, finds himself transported back in time to his hometown square in the year 1955. McFly steps into a world that in many communities has ceased to exist, where picturesque town centers are buzzing with commerce and residents find services and entertainment offered with enthusiasm. What that character is shown to experience is what I felt when I took a drive about an hour southeast to the town of Red Wing, MN.
     I am a big supporter of historic preservation, and in Red Wing I was happy to discover well-maintained and actively used buildings dating from the mid-19th century. I began a walking tour at Levee Park on the waterfront of the Mississippi River, where I watched river traffic from a swinging park bench reminiscent of an old front porch. Set back from Levee Park is the stately St. James Hotel, built in the 1870s and perfectly preserved inside and out. Back on Main Street I was excited to see restaurants, retailers, a furniture store with Main Street display windows, and various other thriving businesses operating from the historic buildings. If there were any empty storefronts in these great old structures they were well disguised. Adding to the ambiance was the fact the downtown area showed no disrepair and was as clean as could be.
     A V-shaped park running perpendicular to the riverfront and situated between West Avenue and East Avenue was my next stop. Attractive churches line both sides of East and West Avenues and were mixed in with the post office, library, an outdoor stage, and county government buildings. Children were playing a game in the park, residents were walking their dogs, and church bells chimed every fifteen minutes. Except for the passing modern cars, I imagine the scene looked the same in the 1950s (or 40s, or 30s, etc).
     It would have been nice to hang around in this comforting time warp for a few days, but I had to move on. Someday I'll return for a weekend to spend more time enjoying the best of the past successfully blended with the present. Congratulations to the people of Red Wing for setting the example of how to sustain architecturally significant buildings and maintain wonderful community charm.

Dakota Rail Regional Trail

Location coordinates:
44º58’10”N, 93º31’15”W 
Trail head, Wayzata, Minnesota

    Our well-above-normal spring weather has enabled an early start for my bike-riding season this year. Yesterday was another gorgeous day in the mid-50s, and my bike was calling for me to hit the road. The Twin Cities rank among the top for bicycling with literally hundreds of miles of trails. I’ve ridden many of the trails in town so exploring one a bit further out seemed appealing. With the bike in the back of the car I headed for downtown Wayzata on the shores of Lake Minnetonka.

     The northeastern head for the Dakota Rail Regional Trail is situated at the Wayzata (pronounced why-zet-a) marina and beach, and from this starting point the route runs 13.5 miles south and west along the shore of Lake Minnetonka and the communities of Orono, Minnetonka Beach, Spring Park, Mound, and Minnetrista, before it terminates in St. Bonifacius. Sections of the trail pass some of the most beautiful (and most pricey!) homes in the area, which are situated in bucolic settings mixing lake, marsh, woods, and perfectly landscaped acreages.

     Just five days past Lake Minnetonka’s 2010 official ice-out date of April 2nd, I found the water such a dark navy blue that it nearly seemed black, allowing for a striking contrast with the dry and brown reeds and cattails along the shore and in the surrounding marshes. The strong oily smell of railroad ties greeted me as I passed over a bridge at Crystal Bay, which struck me as comforting for some reason. As I pressed on through Minnetonka Beach I had the sense I had been transported back to my former life in Massachusetts: the architecture and setting of the homes in this village truly reminded me of New England.

     I rode most of the afternoon in blissful solitude, stopping now and then to watch Canadian snow geese or mallard ducks gliding in for a water landing. Eventually I retraced my path back to Wayzata where I sat by water’s edge and observed the first sailboats of the season skimming over Wayzata Bay. It’s hard to believe just a few weeks ago I watched Chevy Suburbans driving over that same surface. Ah, the glory of four seasons!

The Twins New Era

Location coordinates:
44°58'54"N, 93°16'42"W
Target Field, Minneapolis, Minnesota  

     Unplanned moments or events typically are the most memorable. One such unexpected occasion occurred this past Friday evening when my wife, daughter and I had the fortunate opportunity to witness the very first (professional) baseball game played at Target Field, home of the Minnesota Twins. The new stadium brings outdoor baseball back after 28 seasons of indoor play at the Metrodome, and anticipation levels have been very high. I had assumed opening game ticket availability would be impossible, which is correct for the official season home opener to be played April 12th against the Boston Red Sox. But a savvy colleague of my wife suggested we try for tickets to an exhibition series against the St. Louis Cardinals on April 2nd and 3rd. We secured tickets for the first game which put us in place to take part in Minnesota Twins history.

     I've not followed Twins baseball in the past (I'm a Red Sox and Cardinals fan), but I was immediately swept up into the excitement all around me as we entered Target Plaza near the gate 34 entrance. A heavy percussion band playing somewhere out of my sightline charged up the atmosphere, and all around me people were posing for pictures, recording their attendance at this historic event. Our first stop was the Majestic Twins Clubhouse Store where we outfitted ourselves with official Twins attire. Then it was off to find our seats, which were perfectly situated behind the Twins dugout.

     Once seated, I surveyed my surroundings. Sleek glass joined sand-colored limestone in graceful curves and futuristic angles and pushed my thoughts toward good times to come. Then I focused on contrasting retro features such as the Celebration Sign (Twins logo with players "Minnie" and "Paul" shaking hands against a Minnesota map backdrop) and the Budweiser logo that gave me the nostalgic feeling of "the good ole' days". The breeze shifted and I caught the pleasing aromas of bratwurst, beer and . . . cheese curds? (Hmmm . . . only in Minnesota.) But what was most notable for me was the crowd. I have never observed a more polite crowd. People waited to get up until inning breaks. No rough language was heard. There was an obvious lack of obnoxious or rude behavior of any kind. If this is Minnesota Nice, I'm all for it. It made me want to be part of this fan base, sharing this new stadium experience with them and my new hometown team.

     I've enjoyed several bonding sporting event moments, and this one will rank among the top. I left the stadium an official Twins fan, which presents certain conflicts with my other favorite teams (how do I handle the home opener against Boston?!). Unfortunately, the Cardinals prevented the Twins from marking a win on the first game at Target Field, but the whole season is ahead and I'm thinking it will be a great one. Go Twins!

Ice Out

Location coordinates:
44°55'41"N, 93°18'6"W
north beach, Lake Harriet, Minneapolis, Minnestota

     When we announced our move to Minnesota from Arkansas last summer, the first reaction from others were dire warnings about the weather. Invariably the consensus was we would find the winter season especially unbearable, and former co-workers of mine went so far as to predict our abandonment of Minnesota within a year and our return to more tolerable climes. Having just completed our first winter in Minneapolis I am happy to report the masses were wrong. We loved it! And while this winter did present its share of mood-challenging days, it also set the stage for the annual spring transition event known as Ice Out.

     The numerous lakes around the state froze solid by mid-December. Ice fishing huts were out soon afterward, and by early January we were participating in neighborhood festivals held atop the frozen lake surface. I was later able to witness what I had to this point only seen in movies: vehicles driving toward ice fishing huts over the surface of the lake. This amazes me still.

     As late as last weekend the lakes remained frozen. But when I saw forecasts for seventy-degree weather for mid-week I knew I needed to be ready to witness change. Monday the temperature reached 59 degrees, and as I rode my bike around the Lake Harriet trail I noted the ice had receded about ten yards from the shoreline. Tuesday the temperature jumped to 74 degrees and the full ice out began. A stiff southerly breeze began pushing the ice cover from south to north causing it to run into the northern shoreline and break apart. The frozen surface darkened as its thickness diminished, and the northern portion began to resemble a soda fountain drink with crushed ice. Standing on the north shore I felt constant temperature contrasts: one minute warm air filtered around me, the next frigid air pushed in off the remaining ice. What fascinated me most were the sounds, which reminded me of breaking glass muffled by cloth. Compressed ice piled up on the north beach forming beautiful ice crystals (shown in the photo above). Across the lake surface small rivulets formed as the large ice chunks slowly separated. The lake literally seemed to be coming to life with movement like a bear waking from hibernation.

     Within 26 hours the entire event was complete and the once solid lake was fully liquid again, its surface ripples glimmering in the sun. It seems now that spring is officially here. I wonder when the sailboats will return? Check back . . . I'll keep you posted.