Wadi Bani Khalid

Location Coordinates:

22°36'07"N, 59°04'59"E
Wadi Bani Khalid,
Ash Sharqiyah North
Governate, Oman

     Our destination for the last half of our final full day out in the Omani countryside was the oasis known as Wadi Bani Khalid. As we made our way to the wadi from our last stop at the Wahiba Sands, our driver/guide continued to entertain with his interesting and often humorous stories about the life and times of Oman. And I was further treated with scenes of wandering herds of camels by the roadside, something I'd been hoping to see along all of our routes outside of Muscat.

     We eventually arrived at a very crowded parking area where we left the car and began about a 10-15 minute walk on a path surrounded by palms and what appeared to be irrigation trenches. At the end of the path

Wadi Bani Khalid

we found the emerald green pool serving as the key attraction of the wadi. Our guide led us toward a small bridge crossing the water and into an area with sheltered tables. We took time to enjoy a buffet-style Omani lunch that included some very tasty dishes, the names of which I of course cannot recall now.  

Wadi Bani Khalid

     After eating we sat for a while, watching the crowd swimming and lounging in the sun. While the scenery was dramatic in that Middle Eastern way, the activities were comfortably similar to what you might find at any hot-weather water destination anywhere else in the world. It was the beginning of the weekend. Families spread picnics out on the ground or at tables scattered about and cooled off by swimming in the natural pool. Groups of young guys dared each other to jump from cliff areas of varying height and perceived risk into the dark green water below. Smaller children ran about playing whatever games small children may typically play. It was a nice slice of Omani leisure-time life.

Cliff jumping

     When we'd seen what we came to see, our guide told us he would treat us to a drive up a little-used dirt and rock road for an elevated overview of the entire area. The road was quite steep and curvy, but the Toyota had no problem navigating to the top and to an overlook that provided a grand view of the wadi and the surrounding landscape - a fitting finale to our tour of rural Oman.

Wadi Bani Khalid from above

     From here we made the roughly three hour drive back into Muscat, during which time I continued to be alternately amused by our guide's stories or frightened that my life would surely end in a fiery crash along some Omani road as a result of his aggressive driving style. But, alas, we made it to the hotel just fine, and I was even a bit sad to say goodbye to our good-humored guide that had put me at ease and provided such an interesting and educational day.  

Landscape above Wadi Bani Khalid

     The remainder of our time in Oman was spent relaxing at the pool or beachside at our hotel, which enabled us to gear up for the marathon flights back to our side of the planet. And as I relaxed by the water I gave myself a hearty pat on the back for confronting what turned out to be baseless fears about traveling to this fascinating part of the world. If you're not willing to stretch yourself, you really could end up cheating yourself out of some pretty amazing experiences.

Bashing the Dunes of Wahiba Sands

Location Coordinates:
22°00'N, 58°50'E
Wahiba Sands,
Ash Sharqiyah Region,
Oman

     Up to this point in our tour of northern Oman our daughter had been serving as our expert guide. By mid-week it was time to take the pressure off of her and let her enjoy and explore along with us. We decided to hire a local guide to take us on a very popular excursion to the Wahiba Sands for some dune-bashing and a visit to an actual Bedouin family home.

Wahiba Sands

     Our guide arrived in his crisp, white dishdasha, loaded us into his white Toyota 4x4 SUV, and we shot off like a rocket from the hotel entrance and out into central Muscat, eventually taking routes 15 and 23 south and east about 145 miles (230 kilometers) toward the village of Bidiyah. Our guide's outgoing personality made us feel as if we were with an old friend we'd known for years, and over the course of the day he provided so much interesting information about Omani life that it was hard to take it all in. On the outskirts of Muscat he said we would be "to the desert" in about two hours, which seemed quite amusing considering my view out the window told me that we certainly were already in the desert. But as I was soon to discover, his reference to "the desert" was the roughly 4,800 sq. miles (12,500 sq. km) of distinctive, golden-red colored dunes of Wahiba Sands (aka The Sharqiyah Sands).

Our guide checking the air pressure of the tires

     The village of Bidiyah is a common entry point to Wahiba Sands, and the first thing we did upon arrival there was to stop at a place where a man deflated our tires to approximately half of their normal air pressure. This process allows for much better traction in the sand dunes, and it was an odd site seeing cars lined up to let the air out of their tires. From Bidiyah we left the paved road and forged on into the dunes. At this point it is a free for all, with drivers going in any direction, with the only restriction being their level of thrill seeking. Our guide asked how daring we were, and my reply was simply "just don't let the car roll over". Perhaps sensing we weren't really out for heart-stopping adrenaline rushes he kept the vertical drops and speeds in the low-key range. But it was still a white knuckle ride. The Toyota's engine shrieked as the RPMs revved to keep traction in the sand, and the tires threw up huge curtains of flying sand as we bashed over and through the dunes. Wild and crazy fun to be sure.

Dune-bashing

Bedouin encampment

     After we'd had enough dune-bashing we stopped at a high point and looked out over the desert. The view was like a scene from a movie. Undulating dunes dotted with scruffy little trees in small valleys as far as the eye could see. There were also a few Bedouin encampments with their herds of camels and goats.

Interior of a Bedouin home

     We made our way down the dunes and parked next to a low-roofed, square structure with palm frond siding. Our guide led us to the doorway where he greeted two young men in the traditional Omani male way of touching nose-to-nose. As I approached the young Bedouins I was surprised to see their intent was to also greet me nose-to-nose. As I am a "this is my space, that is yours" type of personality, this threw me a bit off guard. Sensing that I didn't know quite how to react, the young man smiled and simply said "...nose...nose", after which I complied. With another unique Omani experience under my belt we moved inside and were directed to a pretty rug spread over mats on the sand flooring. We took seats on the floor and our guide offered us the customary Omani coffee and date refreshment. While we ate our dates and sipped our coffee the guide talked about Bedouin life and the layout of their homes. The simple, open space was designed to maximize air flow which helped to keep the home cool in the broiling desert sun. As we talked we began noticing rabbits running here and there. We came to realize the rabbits shared the Bedouin home, accessing their underground warrens through a hole in the middle of the home's sand floor. Everyone seems to work together in the desert.

One of the rabbits sharing the Bedouin home space

     We then followed the young Bedouins outside to the pens where their camels were kept. The men had plans to take two of the camels somewhere distant, so they set about loading the two into the back of their Toyota pickup. This was not an unfamiliar site, as I had noticed camels in pickups earlier that day - certainly not something you see every day back in the U.S. As the chosen two were loaded, their pen mate camel voiced his extreme displeasure, screeching and baring his camel teeth in a menacing way. I guess he wanted to go to town too.

A classic desert scene

     We spent some time wandering around the camel pens and watching other dune-bashing vehicles off in the distance. Then it was time to head back to the village, refill the tires with air, and head on down the road.

Sur

Sur, Oman

Location Coordinates:
22°34'00"N, 59°31'44"E
Ash Sharqiyah Region,
Sur, Oman


     By late afternoon of our second full day in Oman we had made it to the northeast corner of the country and to the coastal city of Sur. With its location at a point where the Gulf of Oman meets with the Arabian Sea in the northern Indian Ocean, Sur is known as an important seaport and shipbuilding city. Many of the iconic wooden dhow boats seen cruising the waters off the Arabian Peninsula are built at a ship building facility on Sur's inner harbor.

Beached dhow boat

     My first impression as we drove into the city from the west was that it seemed fairly spread out for a population of approximately 70,000. At one of the first main roads off the primary highway we made a left turn and drove toward the sea. We passed one or two nice beach resort hotels in the Ar Rusagh area of the city, and then we found our way to Biwadi Al Ayga, a restaurant near Sur's souq that our daughter knew, for a late lunch/early dinner. Our daughter referred to the food style as "Omani fusion" with the primary influence being Indian. The decor of the restaurant was quite basic, but the service was very friendly and efficient. We were seated on the family side (many restaurants have separate seating areas for men only, or mixed men and women in families) and ordered several dishes prepared with various spice intensities, from very mild (my wife's choice) to fire alarm hot (our daughter's choice).

Broad beaches of Sur

     Driving around town after our meal gave me my next overall impression of Sur: the look and feel of the city seemed less international, more pure Omani. In Muscat, being the capital as well as Oman's primary international and business destination, there is an obvious bilingual representation. Arabic as well as English are represented on road signs and most other forms of communication. In Sur, the native Arabic is by far more prevalent. The architecture is not as flashy as in Muscat, and there was a noticeable reduction in the number of global chain stores and restaurants. So we certainly felt more immersed in Omani culture as we went about the city.

Smaller inner harbor

     After touring the Sur College of Applied Sciences campus, our daughter wanted to show us a spot she knew by one of the old watchtowers overlooking the harbor. Watchtowers are familiar features in Omani landscapes, especially in coastal cities where they were built to keep watch over important trade and shipping routes. We traveled along the corniche next to the broad expanse of beach in the main part of the city and eventually drove across a short bridge

Ship building facility and the main part of Sur

over the inlet connecting the Gulf of Oman to the inner harbor. A quick right turn after the bridge took us to an area where we could leave the car and hike up a hill to one of the watchtowers. This particular watchtower appeared to be the highest in the city, and from this vantage point we could see the other watchtowers, all sections of Sur, the beaches and corniche and all of the harbor.

     It was an amazing view, and our daughter's perfect timing allowed us to be at that spot as the sun was setting. Not only did we get a bird's eye view of all of Sur, but the glow of sunset really helped set up a pretty remarkable scene.

Sunset in Sur

To the right, or east, was a view of the smaller crescent-shaped harbor near the inlet. To the left, or west, were the main parts of the city and the larger inner harbor. And directly ahead was the inlet and broad beach area. It was a grand finish to another extraordinary day full of sights, sounds and tastes well outside of my normal day-to-day life.

Time Travel in Wadi Shab

Location Coordinates:
22°50'27"N, 59°13'52"E
Wadi Shab,
Ash Sharqiyah North Governate
near Tiwi, Oman

     Leaving our last destination of Wadi Dayqah Dam we continued along the Muscat-Sur coastal road eastward toward the town of Sur. We drove along next to the Gulf of Oman taking in vistas of both sea to our north and mountains to our south. I was hoping to see groups of grazing camels, something my daughter, who had traveled the road numerous times, mentioned was entirely possible. But alas, no camels were to be found. Goats, yes. Lots and lots of goats. But no camels. We left the main road at an exit near the town of Tiwi and made our way to a nearby parking area alongside the water of Wadi Ash Shab, or Wadi Shab.

Wadi Shab

     One of the attractions of Wadi Shab is gaining access to beautiful pools in which to swim. But swimming was not on our agenda this day. Our plan was to hike just a short distance up the wadi simply to see this unique setting. But first we needed to hire a boat to take us the short distance from the parking area to where the pathway began.  For one Omani rial per person (approximately $2.60) we were taken by small motorboat to a rocky spot on the opposite shore where we could begin our hike up the wadi.

Palm-thatched roof on an ancient looking shack

     Wadi Shab is a popular spot for recreation, with swimming and hiking being primary attractions. So on a typical day you would find an abundance of people. But we were fortunate in that we found ourselves
virtually alone as we started through the reeds and palms. Our solitude allowed me to pretend that I was walking back in time because my impression of the scenery was that it had essentially looked the same for thousands of years. There were a few buildings along the way, and they helped me play out the fantasy of time travel. What I was seeing resembled illustrations I'd seen in children's Bible story books: stone walls, buildings appearing to be made of clay and rock, palm thatched roofs, and emerald pools from which you could imagine robed women drawing water with clay pots.

Wadi Shab

     After about thirty minutes time we reached a point where the walls of the wadi narrowed considerably. Here the water became much deeper, both in depth and color. The pathway continued and moved from the wadi floor up and along the cliff side with the water below. Apparently this particular spot is a popular place for daring souls to jump or dive, something we also chose not to include in our experience that day. From this point one would continue hiking up the wadi to get to the really popular swimming areas, including a hidden waterfall grotto accessible only by swimming through an underwater passageway. But our time was short and the temperature was climbing so we decided to turn back and retrace our steps back to the boat drop off point.

Jumping off point for the brave

     I wasn't able to play my back-in-time game on the way down as we met up with some American expatriates from Qatar that were also heading back after having hiked further up the trail. We made it back to the boat pick up point, with five of us piling into the same small boat for the short ride back to the parking area. We picked up some snacks (Chilli-flavored Chips Oman and waters), turned up the car's A/C, and hit the highway again continuing east toward Sur.

Wadi Dayqah Dam

View from the Wadi Dayqah Dam visitor center

Location Coordinates:
23°04'56"N, 58°50'56"E
Wadi Dayqah Dam
Governate of Muscat, Oman

In recent years the Sultanate of Oman has made considerable improvements in their infrastructure and transportation systems. We were able to witness two grand examples of this modernization as we drove eastwardly from the capital city of Muscat along the new Route 17, which is also known as the Muscat-Sur Coastal route. My understanding is that prior to the recent completion of this route the drive from Muscat to Sur was significantly longer time wise, and not without other challenges. But now it is smooth sailing. After negotiating some late-stage construction projects on the

Wadi Dayqah Dam

outskirts of Muscat we sped along the route through some very impressive landscapes, with mountains on one side of the road and, eventually, the Gulf of Oman on the other side. Nearing the town of Quriyat we left the main highway and traveled along a smaller road past herds of wandering goats to the entrance of the Wadi Dayqah Dam, a water supply project completed just within the last few years (2012).

Wadi Dayqah reservoir

In Arabic the word "wadi" refers to a valley, or, a riverbed that is dry, except when it isn't. The "isn't" part is reflective of when rainfall or some other natural or man made event causes water to flow down the watercourse. The Wadi Dayqah Dam was constructed to capture water within the wadi as a means to supply irrigation and drinking water for the local area as well as the city of Muscat.

Grounds overlooking Wadi Dayqah reservoir

One of the most notable things I found during my visit to Oman was how superbly everything was maintained, and Wadi Dayqah Dam provided yet another striking example. True, the dam is new, which may have something to do with that impression. However, I'd be willing to bet that if I visited this place again in twenty years it would look as neat and trimmed as it is now. Just off the parking area is an expansive and nicely landscaped space for taking in the view of the dam's reservoir. You can also stop off at a small restaurant, or seek shelter from the sun at one of the covered benches.

The blue-green color of the water makes for a dramatic contrast to the brown and rugged hills surrounding the reservoir.

Tablets seemingly carved from the stone wall

On one side of the wadi below the dam is an interesting geological feature that sort of looks like two tablets carved and set apart from the stone hillside. On the opposite side is a small village and a palm-filled oasis that I am sure might be a popular place during the really hot months when the temperature routinely climbs to around 120° F (50° C). Thankfully it was only around 80° to 85°F the day we were there.

Village and oasis in the wadi

After seeing the sights outside we found the visitor center. It was a weekday, so the number of visitors was light. In fact, we were the only visitors in the center at the time. After milling about for a few minutes we were approached by a young man sharply dressed in a dishdasha (ankle-length, robe-like garment) and mussar (the formal, or business headdress) worn by Omani men.  He greeted us warmly and asked if he could answer any questions. After answering a couple of our basic questions he was anxious to do more, so he led us on a private mini-tour of the facility, explaining much of the technical aspects of the dam and reservoir. When my wife asked if there was a brochure available in English he seemed genuinely apologetic that there was not. Not willing to let us leave without English language information, he asked us to wait and shortly returned with not one, but two large English hardbound books about the dam from their operational office. These were clearly reference books full of detailed information, and would likely command a hefty price in any gift store in a similar facility. When we attempted to return the books the man refused and said they were our gifts, at no charge. Once again I stood in disbelief at the incredible hospitality of the Omanis. After thanking the man profusely we began making our way toward the exit. The man, along with several of his colleagues, walked with us and thanked us for our visit and encouraged our return visit soon.

Bolstered by yet another example of Omani friendliness and generosity, we hit the road, traveling the same way back to Route 17 and on to our next adventure..

Evening Stroll in the Muttrah District

Location Coordinates:
23°37'N, 58°34'E
Muttrah District
Muscat, Oman

As our first full day in Oman moved from afternoon toward evening we set off for a sunset stroll along the corniche in the Muttrah District of Muscat. We had spent the earlier part of the afternoon learning about historic weapons and dress prevalent in Omani culture at the Bait al Zubair museum. Just a short drive from the museum is the corniche, a wide and winding road and walkway hugging the port's shore. Walking along this route would take us to our last planned stop of the day, the lively Muttrah Souq (a marketplace sometimes spelled  souk). Afternoons in Oman are quiet due to the weather typically being at its very hottest during this time of day. While this particular day was very comfortable temperature-wise, the city still had a feel of coming back to life as we set off on our walk. The traffic thickened and sidewalks filled as evening started to approach.

The Sultan's yacht and a dhow boat

As the Muscat Port is a primary commercial port for Oman there were many ships and boats anchored in the harbor. Without question, the most notable ship was the massive Al Said, the personal yacht of Oman's Sultan Qaboos. The Al Said dwarfed the dhow boats and other personal watercraft that dotted the harbor. The contrast between the sleek and modern yacht and the dhow boats that have likely looked the same for hundreds of years was pretty remarkable.

Along the corniche 

Along the corniche groups of men began to congregate, sitting and smoking and no doubt filling each other in on their day's activities. Women, often with small children in tow, made their way toward the souq to stock up on whatever it was they needed that day. It was now after 5:00 pm and the souq had just re-opened for the evening. (Like many other businesses and activities, the souq is typically closed during the hours of 1:00 pm and 4:00 or 5:00 pm.) I had no interest in shopping, but I was curious to see the cramped stalls, dark walkways, and the wide array of colorful merchandise being sold. I'm sure that historically the souq was the go-to marketplace for residents. But in today's modern Muscat it might be that the souq is less practical for residents and more relevant to travelers looking for the excitement of bartering for any number of iconic Omani and Arabian items. On our visit it appeared pashmina scarves were the vendors common product of choice to lure people into their small shops with hopes that additional treasures would be purchased. At first it was unsettling to be assertively hailed by so many sellers offering the same thing, but eventually it became comical. It was a bit like walking down a carnival midway at the state fair, with a difference being the smell of corn dogs and popcorn was replaced by a heavy frankincense aroma (which, by the way, smells great!).

Entrance to the Muttrah Souq

It was just about sunset by the time we emerged from the din of the souq. It was too early for dinner, but our stomachs - trying valiantly to make sense of the crazy time change impact - were in need of some sustenance. Our daughter suggested we find something to snack on as a holdover until dinner. She set off to find shawarma, one of her favorite local foods, which is similar to a small Greek gyro. She located a fast food joint with outside tables and ordered up three chicken shawarmas. While these were being prepared I set off with the camera to do my best to capture the pulse of the area in sunset light. Back at the table the shawarmas arrived just as the sunset call to prayer came from the loudspeakers at the nearby mosque.

Along the corniche

When I've heard the Islamic call to prayer in movies or other media, I've usually felt uneasy. Perhaps Americans have come to associate this call as somehow threatening. But hearing it in person sitting at a sidewalk table snacking on a savory Arabian specialty and watching locals and tourists easily intermingling put everything in a new perspective. It wasn't threatening at all. It was pleasing. And from then on I was kind of disappointed when I was out of earshot from a mosque during one of the five daily calls.

Open air dining near the Muttrah Souq

We wrapped up the day dining at a beach side restaurant at a table in the sand just a few yards from the surf. I could in no way have anticipated that setting in my faulty preconceptions about what I'd find in the Middle East. So far this trip was providing one pleasant surprise after another.

Discovery at the Mosque

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Location Coordinates:
23°35'02"N, 58°23'21"E
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Muscat, Oman

     We arrived in Oman late in the evening on a Tuesday, but considering our bodies had just endured roughly sixteen hours of flying time spread over two calendar days and ten time zones, time of day seemed relatively unimportant. Our daughter was there, waiting for her travel-weary parents to emerge from the uncomplicated Omani immigration area at Muscat International Airport. We maneuvered our way through the swarming horde of men offering baggage assistance or taxi rides, loaded ourselves into our daughter's car, and headed east into the city. Passing through the city at this time of night offered little in the way of sightseeing, but as my senses had already been running on overdrive the lack of visual stimulation was actually a comfort. We checked into our hotel and headed for the lounge where our daughter outlined an itinerary that guaranteed a comprehensive introduction to Oman and its people. First up for the next morning was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.

     As a westerner and an American Christian, I felt anxious about visiting such a grand representation of Islam right off the bat. I knew so little about the faith other than media reports about extremist activities. I certainly did not want to unknowingly offend anyone. But our daughter assured us that non-Muslims were very welcome to visit the Mosque, and in fact were encouraged to do so during established visiting hours. Additionally, the primary form of Islam practiced in Oman is Ibadi, which is characterized by moderation and tolerance of other views and religions.

     Being respectful of Islamic traditions is paramount, but quite simple. Visitors should maintain a quiet demeanor, meaning don't brashly run about the grounds or talk loudly inside.  Removal of shoes in interior spaces is required, and all visitors should dress conservatively, covering their shoulders and knees at a minimum. Long-sleeved shirts and pants for men, and modest, long-sleeved shirts and pants or long skirts past the ankle are best for women. Women should cover their hair with a scarf. Other than removal of shoes, these guidelines are essentially similar to visiting the cathedrals of Europe.

     After making sure we were appropriately attired we walked to the visitors entrance, where we were greeted by smiling attendants who wished us a most pleasant visit to the Mosque. My first visual impressions were the immaculately groomed and lush landscaping, fountains and striking architecture. There is a domed men's prayer hall and large primary minaret with four flanking smaller minarets. I went nuts with the camera, trying desperately to capture what I was seeing while imagining how beautiful the scene would be in early morning or dusk lighting.

Wood carving on walls of the women's prayer hall

     Our first interior stop was the smaller women's prayer hall. Inside this space I was most intrigued by the intricate wood carving on the walls and doors. Moving beyond the women's prayer hall we followed symmetrical covered hallways toward a courtyard area known as a sahn. From here we ventured on into the men's prayer hall.

     The men's prayer hall is magnificently intricate, yet quite simple at the same time. The patterned walls, domed ceiling, glorious chandeliers and the immense (second largest in the world) and colorful prayer carpet take your breath away in their beauty. But the space is completely open, without furnishings, making the room ornate without being crowded. We caught the tail end of a guide's presentation, and when he released his group afterwards he walked with us as we exited. His amiable personality and interest in us was apparent immediately, and when he found out we were from Minneapolis he was excited to tell us he had traveled to our town and liked it very much. He thanked us for visiting the Mosque and Oman, understanding that many Americans are reluctant to venture to his part of the world. He encouraged us to act as ambassadors for Omani hospitality to our friends back home, and sincerely invited us to his own home for coffee and dates (a standard tradition in the Arab world). We graciously declined, but found this tradition repeated many times during the remainder of our week in Oman.

Central chandelier, men's prayer hall

     After saying our goodbyes to the guide we were greeted by women in a garden offering coffee, dates and water along with information on Islam (only if interest was expressed by the visitor). We sat for a few minutes drinking our coffees and water and chatting with the women about typical tourist-meets-local subjects. It was so...normal, for lack of a better word. I was so enthralled with the people and surroundings that my family needed to practically drag me to the car before visitor hours ended.

     As we drove away I actually felt foolish for being so nervous about this trip. The Mosque was fascinating, the people were charming, and the knowledge I learned was eye-opening. The choice of the Grand Mosque as a first stop in our tour was perfect, as it enabled me to fully relax and be open and excited about all the experiences that were ahead.

Inside the men's prayer hall