Surprise Find at Amnicon Falls State Park

Nature's Tic-Tac-Toe

Location Coordinates:
46°36'50"N,
91°53'58"W
Amnicon Falls
State Park
near Superior, WI

It was an exploration weekend, one of those "not sure where I'm going but I'll know it when I find it" trips. The first day was spent motoring the scenic highways of northern Minnesota, stopping at historical markers and overlooks, and later having a picnic lunch while watching pontoons and ski boats on one of the several dozen lakes along the path. It was all fine and entertaining, but there were no real dazzling discoveries made. Day two started out much the same way; all very pleasant, and yet still nothing of the attention-grabbing variety that I was seeking. By noon on the second day I began to think the trip might be one of those that just kind of fizzles out, so I decided to simply head for home. As I always try to see new territory whenever possible, I opted to go a little off the direct path down the interstate and crossed over into Wisconsin to take scenic Highway 53 back south. This diversion changed the trip's mood from mediocrity to excitement.

On of the several falls along the Amnicon River

At the intersection of Highway 2 and Highway 53, about 15 miles southeast of downtown Superior, I spotted the sign for Amnicon Falls State Park. As it was mid-day this seemed a perfect place to stop for lunch. But I soon realized this was not going to be an ordinary lunch stop. As you enter the park you see a small set of rapids on the Amnicon River as it flows toward Lake Superior. Down the park road just a bit further were sets of picnic tables, most of which were unoccupied, which overlooked scenic spots near the series of small waterfalls along the river's course.

Pathway on the island

The park's landscape appeared dissimilar to the surrounding countryside, which tended more to farmland and open pasture interspersed with stands of woods. In contrast, the park itself felt more reminiscent of a higher elevation mountainous location. Pine needles carpeted the ground in the picnic areas, and the sound of the rushing river as it cascaded over the various falls allowed my mind to think the air felt just a bit crisper and smelled a little fresher than just outside the park boundaries.

Covered bridge to the island

It was perfect weather on a beautiful summer day, and yet the park was not overrun with people as you might expect. I had a peaceful lunch at a secluded table beside the roaring river. After eating I made my way across a pretty covered bridge onto an island formed by a split of the river. I meandered a while on the island enjoying the trees and the sound of the water, which grew more distant the further I walked. But as I had only planned a lunch stop, my time was running out, and I needed to get back on the road to get home at a decent time.

Toadstool in the spotlight

Before leaving the park I decided to check out the campsites. I am not particularly fond of camping, as it seems to me to represent a lot of effort to achieve a great deal of discomfort. However, I found the campground so appealing, with its very private and heavily wooded individual campsites, that I promised my wife we would come back for a camping weekend. That's impressive for this tried-and-true hotel patron.

Baby pine coming up from the forest floor

Amnicon Falls State Park rendered the whole weekend trip a success. You never know what you'll find when you stray off your normal path. I'd have never discovered this northern Wisconsin gem if I had given in to temptation to simply follow the regular path home. Such are the rewards for those who dare to never take the same way twice.

Dog Days Drive Along the Mississippi

Location Coordinates:
44°30'70"W,
92°21'24"W
Along the Mississippi River
near Stockholm, Wisconsin
 
The expression "Dog Days" can be traced back to ancient Rome, and is generally used as a reference to the hottest, most sultry days of summer. If you live anywhere east of the Rockies, you could fairly refer to the entire month of July as the summer of 2011's Dog Days. All time heat records were set in many locations on an almost daily basis. Here in the Upper Midwest the big story was incredibly high humidity levels, which made enjoying the outdoors quite an uncomfortable endeavor. As July moved into August the hot, stagnant weather pattern finally broke allowing temperatures to fall to more typically pleasant levels. After a month or so of my self-imposed restriction to the comforts of air-conditioned environments, the idea of a leisurely scenic drive in the much improved weather sounded grand.

Dog Days of Stockholm attendee

I crossed the Mississippi River at Prescott, Wisconsin and turned south on Highway 35. Near the town of Bay City the road begins to hug the shore of Lake Pepin, a large widening of the Mississippi River formed by the sedimentary deposits of the Chippewa River where it meets the Mississippi some thirty miles south. The winding route was very pretty, with open farmland and patches of woods intermixed between the river bluffs and the lake shore. Lake Pepin was alive with activity: sailboats, fishing boats, jet skis jumping the wakes of power boats pulling traditional water skiers. It was the picture of a perfect summer day.

Dog Days of Stockholm attendees

About the mid-point of the drive along the eastern shore of Lake Pepin is the village of Stockholm, Wisconsin - population 97. As I approached the northern end of the little town I was curious as to why a village of only 97 residents would have a main street jammed with traffic and parked cars. At the town's only intersection I glanced to my right and discovered the source of the population swell. The 2nd annual Dog Days of Stockholm festival was in high gear. I decided to stop and check it out. Expecting to find a small community summer craft fair, I was surprised to find the Dog Days of Stockholm was quite literally about dogs. A celebration of all things dog, you could take in activities such as a dog herding exhibit, attend the "blessing of the pups", witness a doggy acupuncture treatment, or listen to experts giving tips on dog nutrition. If you didn't have a dog upon entry you could even remedy the situation by visiting with rescued dogs in need of permanent homes. I don't have a dog, but I still found the festival interesting and decided to hang out a while and have some lunch. My lunch selection? A hot dog - of course.



Lake Pepin

 Moving on after lunch I crossed the Chippewa River and Lake Pepin morphed back to being just the Mississippi River again. When I reached the town of Nelson, Wisconsin I found another large crowd. This time the attraction was The Original Nelson Cheese Factory, also known as the Nelson Creamery. I stopped, went inside, and immediately discovered why everyone else driving the route had stopped as well. Inside the ivy-covered building were gourmet goodies imported from around the world, including fine wines. And of course there was a large selection of Wisconsin cheeses. I opted for a simple ice cream cone, which I enjoyed outside while watching a nearby farmer work his field.



Nelson Creamery - Nelson, WI

 My drive was just a small portion of the very scenic route along the Mississippi River, and it inspired me to start plans for more excursions further downriver. It was also a welcome reminder that during this summer of oppressive heat, frustrating political gridlock, and economic worries that simple summer joys like dog shows and ice cream cones are still out there to be experienced and enjoyed.

Ville de Québec

Location Coordinates:
46°49'N, 71°13'W
Québec City, Québec
Canada

If you are a Francophile, but the thought of enduring an eight to ten hour flight across the Atlantic to France leaves you uninspired, then you need to visit our neighbors to the north in Québec. To give cultural credit its due, Québec City is definitely French Canadian. But the feel of the city is undeniably European. The spoken language is strictly French, as are all signs, menus and, well - everything. Strolling any of the streets in Vieux-Québec (Old Québec) is virtually the same experience as wandering down an avenue in Paris.

Lower Town

Old Québec is separated into two areas, Haute-Ville (Upper Town) and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). I began my visit in Lower Town meandering along winding streets, dropping into interesting-looking stores and taking in the old world ambiance. When I was ready to investigate Upper Town I had a choice to make. I could climb the rather numerous steps, or I could pay a few dollars and ride the Old Québec Funicular. The decision was an easy one, and I soon was gliding up an incredibly steep angle while being treated to a view of the Lower Town that improved with each and every one of the fifty-nine metres (about 195 feet) we climbed.

Chateau Frontenac

When the funicular stopped in Upper Town I found myself near the iconic Château Frontenac, a grand hotel sitting on the most prominent point of the city. The exterior of the hotel was, of course, under refurbishment, rendering it slightly less impressive than I had hoped. (In my travels I have come to realize that the one building or attraction that one is eager to see will very likely will be undergoing some type of renovation. I'm sure it is some sort of conspiracy, but I haven't yet figured out who or what to blame.)

Upper Town street scene

From Château Frontenac I followed a long, broad boardwalk along the bluff of Upper Town which provided sweeping views of Lower Town and the St. Lawrence River valley. I then made my way to Rue St-louis and passed through the old fortification walls which separate the old historical city from the modern city. After stopping by Québec's Parliament Building I ventured back into Vieux-Québec and decided to have lunch at a restaurant offering a table by a full-length open window. The food was fine, however the service was also typically French. In other words, the server seemed to feel she was doing me a favor by taking my order, and I had to nearly perform a floor show to get her attention so that she would bring the bill.

Side street in Upper Town

After lunch there was time for more street strolling and shop visiting. When I found a store on Rue Sous-le-fort that offered Italian gelato I stepped inside for a cone of my favorite lemon flavor. I bought a cone from a very friendly young salesclerk, but not before witnessing a cringe-worthy example of the Ugly Americans. A couple in line in front of me insisted on paying for their gelato with U.S. Dollars, which the clerk willingly accepted. But the couple became quite rude and irate when the clerk informed them she could only provide change in Canadian currency. The American couple made quite a spectacle of themselves, and as a traveling American myself I was embarrassed at this selfish and insensitive behavior. The clerk handled the situation with extreme courtesy and tact, which unfortunately means she likely deals frequently with similar rude Americans on the same issue. So here is my plea to fellow Americans: if you travel in Canada, please be respectful and stop at an ATM for Canadian currency. After all, how successful would a Canadian citizen be if he or she slapped down a Canadian bill to pay for a McDonald's Big Mac in downtown Chicago? Not very.


My day in Québec City exceeded my expectations. What I appreciated most about Québec was the opportunity to spend time in a completely different culture surrounded by amazing European architecture while still being relatively close to home. And for that I say to the Québécois, merci beaucoup, mes amis.

Charlottetown Charm



Weather vane in Charlottetown Harbour



Location Coordinates:

46°14'00"N

63°09'00"W

Charlottetown,

Prince Edward Island

Canada

     So, what do Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island have in common? Certainly not size. Metro Philly has a population of roughly six million versus Charlottetown's total of about 58,000. But both cities have the common historical characteristic of being the birthplace of their respective countries. Philadelphia was the site of the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1776, and in 1864 Charlottetown hosted the Charlottetown Conference, the initiation of talks to form the Confederation of Canada. And while Charlottetown is significantly smaller than its U.S. counterpart, it certainly is not lacking when it comes to appeal and personality.


Historic architecture of downtown





     Charlottetown makes a great first impression. I arrived by sea, and therefore my initial contact was at the port and marine terminal where I was greeted by a warm and welcoming group of traveler's aide workers. I opted to take a sightseeing tour by bus in order to get a quick overview of the city. Something immediately noticeable is the people of Charlottetown obviously take pride in their community, homes, and civic buildings. Everything was beautifully landscaped and meticulously maintained, from the city centre to the outlying areas. The downtown core exudes charm in its preserved historical architecture, and the businesses I visited were staffed by the friendliest people imaginable.

Stately homes near downtown

     When the bus tour was complete I headed out on foot to check out areas that had caught my eye earlier. One stop along the path was a unique knitwear store that appealed to me on several levels. First of all, the store owner features the work of dozens of local craftsmen and artisans, something I look very favorable upon. But what was truly unique about Northern Watters Knitwear was the fact their beautiful knit garments are manufactured on site. In the back of the store was a crew of about five people patiently operating 100-year-old antique knitting looms. The resulting sweaters, scarves, hats, and other various knit items were a level of quality that I'm sure cannot be beat. The store owner made it a point to personally welcome and speak with each and every visitor to his store. It was obvious he felt a well-deserved pride for his business.

Prince Edward Battery - Victoria Park

     On the west side of downtown is pretty Victoria Park, which also includes the Prince Edward Battery fortification facing the harbour. I had a peaceful (albeit chilly) lunch here before walking back into downtown along a boardwalk path. It was then time for me to decide if I would partake in a vital ritual for all visitors to Charlottetown: a cone from Cows Ice Cream. Charlottetown-based Cows was voted "Canada's best ice cream", and you can hardly turn around without someone or something pointing you in the direction of a Cows store. As I had already splurged on another Charlottetown treat by eating a small bag of chocolate covered potato chips (don't be disgusted - they are really, really good!), I ultimately decided it would be best for me to skip the ice cream.

St. Dunstan's Basilica

     Although my time was limited, Canada's smallest province made a significant impression on me. I would love to return for an extended visit to explore the whole of the island. But, as there are far too many places to go and far too little time to see them all, I may have to wait a while for that return trip. Even so, Charlottetown, PEI joins the ranks of my favorite Right Latitudes.

Picturesque Peggys Cove

Rigging and lobster trap

Location Coordinates:
44°29'34"N
63°53'03"W
Peggys Cove,
Nova Scotia
Canada

     Waves crashing onto rocky shores, lobster boats, windswept buildings, fishing nets - these are all images I associate with the northeast coast. That's exactly what I found in Peggys Cove, Nova Scotia. But I had to fight a bit to find the quiet solitude that I also associate with this scene. Gale-force winds and a driving rain literally put a damper on things, as did way too many cantankerous tourists grousing about. However, I persevered and managed to find a few peaceful moments in this very pretty setting.

Peggys Cove fishing boats

     I arrived in nearby Halifax in the early morning and, determined to not let the lousy weather discourage me, boarded a tour bus for the roughly thirty mile drive to the small community of Peggys Cove. Peggys Cove is known around the world as an archetypical small coastal fishing village, and I'm sure at one point or another virtually everyone has seen an image of the village in a calendar or post card or other such publication. Our bus fought its way through heavy Halifax traffic and eventually cleared the city heading in a southwesterly direction through the rural Nova Scotia landscape. As we made our way I was surprised to find an abundance of trees and vegetation. My mind had always imagined this area to be rocky and barren. Then about five miles from Peggys Cove it began to look just as I had envisioned. Our bus made a sharp left turn onto a very narrow road that led into the town of Peggys Cove, and I was able to see even through the driving rain the village was just what I was expecting.



The Peggys Cove lighthouse

      The actual population of Peggys Cove is less than fifty people. The problem lies in the fact that with each arriving tour bus the population doubles, and then triples, and then quadruples . . . well, you get the picture. My tour group was deposited at a centralized gift shop/restaurant which has as its sole purpose the servicing of tourists on their respective thirty minute stopovers. The scene was similar to an airport, with tour busses coming and going on an almost constant basis. This unfortunate fact diluted the town's ambiance to an almost irritating point. Upon leaving their respective busses, most all of the tourists headed for either the gift shop or the lighthouse. As such, I immediately went the opposite way. With one vigilant eye keeping track of the various crowds and one seeking eye admiring the setting, I managed for the most part to keep ahead of the hordes. This process helped me to see the peaceful, rustic side of Peggys Cove. And that pretty image made putting up with the crowds worthwhile.



Fisherman's bench

      Had the weather been sunny I could have stayed in Peggys Cove all day, filling my camera with hundreds of images of boats and lobster rigging, lighthouses and weather-beaten homes. But my thirty minutes expired, and it was back on the bus for me for the return trip to Halifax. I wouldn't mind visiting Peggys Cove again . . . in a rented car . . . very early in the morning before tour operators open for business. Then I'd really have a chance to experience that quaint seaside village quality that is there behind all the t-shirts and souvenir whale bones.

A few hours in Bar Harbor

Location Coordinates:
44°23'09"N,
68°12'34"W
Bar Harbor, Maine

     When I lived on the east coast I visited Maine a number of times. But I had not ventured any further north than the Portland area, which is located in the southwestern portion of the state. I had always wanted to make a trip to Down East Maine, generally defined as the eastern half of Maine's coastline. This is the area I had always imagined to look like your typical calendar shot of Maine. You know the type; the small fishing village with lobster boats tied to docks which extend from weathered buildings, where salty old fishermen in yellow rain gear swap tales of their glory days at sea while whittling on a whale bone and clinching a pipe between their teeth. Well, I made it to Down East Maine the other day during a visit to Bar Harbor. It didn't exactly fit the image I describe above, but it is a place of great beauty with the added bonus of having some of the nicest residents you could ever hope to run into.

Main Street

     There was one down side on the day of my visit: the weather. It was raining. When we first got to town we took a tour that was to explore Acadia National Park and Cadillac Mountain. Even in heavy rain it was immediately obvious the natural beauty of these places is amazing. But our views from atop Cadillac Mountain, which we were told were normally spectacular, were completely obscured by fog. Oh well, not much you can do about the weather.

     Our route from Acadia back toward Bar Harbor went along gorgeous coastline, but heavy rain prevented any decent photography opportunities. Once we were back in town we strolled the quaint streets, dropping in and out of shops and admiring the architectural charm of the place. But the wind and rain continued to pester us, so we ducked into The Opera House Internet Cafe to dry off and warm up with a nice hot cup of coffee. This turned out to be the highlight of the day. We were greeted by a most welcoming and helpful staff that genuinely seemed happy to see us . Maine is known for blueberries, so, wanting to stay in a Maine-ish mood I chose a cup of blueberry-flavored coffee. You might think this sounds like a terrible combination, but you'd be wrong. I liked it so much I bought a bag of it to bring home. If you're curious you might want to give it a try. You can find it at this link for New England Coffee.

Bar Harbor Inn

     Bar Harbor is a haven for the rich and famous, and many mansion-sized "cottages" have been built over the years. Some of these "cottages" have been converted to Inns or Bed & Breakfast establishments, many of which caught my attention as potential destinations should I get a chance to return in more accommodating weather. Weather notwithstanding, my introduction to Down East Maine was successful and left me wanting to explore it further. And my next trip to Bah Hahbah will include a great big succulent lobster. Yum!

Hiding from the heat in Duluth

Beach at Minnesota Point

Location Coordinates:
46°47'35"N,
92°05'24"W
Minnesota Point and
Downtown
Duluth, MN

     Many people anxiously await the arrival of hot weather. However, I am not one of them. Fortunately, I live in the north where extreme summer heat is kept to a minimum. But while our extra hot days are fewer than in other parts of the country, we are not immune to brutal blasts of life-choking heat and humidity that can make even the most mild-tempered soul a bit cranky. Such was the case earlier this month when we had a two day run of record setting heat that had me scrambling for ways to escape. I had read about the city of Duluth being known as "the air-conditioned city", so this seemed like the perfect opportunity to verify that claim.



      As I drove north from the Twin Cities the car thermometer showed that it was already 92 degrees, and it was only 9:30 in the morning. It was clear the record high of 95 degrees for that date was in real jeopardy. The temperature dropped back slowly over the first 50 miles or so and then settled at 88 degrees. I checked the thermometer almost constantly as I continued north, and I was beginning to think it would never budge from 88 degrees. But then, about 30 miles out from Duluth, I looked down and the thermometer read 80 degrees. A minute later it dropped to 78, then to 75, and then it became a steady downward ticking degree by degree to the point I thought the car thermometer wasn't able to keep up with the change. It was amazing.




Boardwalk to the beach

      I stopped for lunch on the outskirts of Duluth. At this point the temperature had dropped to 63 degrees, down an amazing 25 degrees from just 30 miles back. After eating I continued on toward downtown, crossed the Aerial Lift Bridge and followed Minnesota Avenue out to Minnesota Point. By now the thermometer was reading only 58 degrees with a bracing north wind coming off the lake. I walked down a boardwalk and out onto a mostly deserted sandy beach where wind-driven waves were crashing in rapid succession. It was invigorating, to say the least. And I loved every refreshing minute walking along that beach knowing that back in Minneapolis the heat was heading toward triple digits.

Windsurfing - Duluth style!

     I watched a couple of windsurfers braving the elements for a while, and then I headed back into downtown in search of another Duluth attraction I had read about, the Portland Malt Shoppe. If you ever get a chance to visit Duluth, you cannot leave town without stopping at Portland Malt Shoppe, where you can enjoy the best (albeit the most expensive) chocolate malt you will ever taste while sitting at a table with one of the finest views of Lake Superior in the city.

Great chocolate malts with the perfect view!

     To work off the chocolate malt I decided to stroll the length of the Lakewalk, a four mile walking/jogging/biking path hugging the lakeshore. The Lakewalk passes through parks, entertainment areas, and winds up at the canal and Aerial Lift Bridge where you can watch for inbound and outbound Great Lakes freighter ships.

Duluth Lakewalk

     Having validated that Duluth definitely lives up to its nickname of "the air-conditioned city", it was time to head for home, which unfortunately meant crossing back into that oppressive heat. I glumly watched the car thermometer climb as rapidly as it had dropped earlier as I hit the wall of hot air kept at bay by the cool winds off Lake Superior. Minneapolis set a new record of 103 degrees that afternoon, the hottest temperature the city had seen in many years. I was overjoyed to have missed it, having comfortably spent the day in weather some 45 degrees cooler! And now I've got a new strategy: when the temp is north of ninety, it's time to go north to Duluth.