Full Day on Keweenaw Peninsula

Pebble beaches of Lake Superior

Location Coordinates:
Approximate -
47°15'N, 88°20'W
Keweenaw Peninsula,
Michigan

I'm good with maps. I'm not embarrassed to say that a good map can keep me entertained for hours. So when I travel I typically have thoroughly studied road layouts and geographic characteristics of wherever it is that I'm going. This aptitude is quite handy when I'm starting off to explore unfamiliar territory. But every now and again I have a slip-up. I miscalculate things such as the impact of two-lane highways or time spent at interesting sites along the path. Such was the case when a planned seven-hour scenic driving route turned into a twelve-hour express marathon.

Near Silver City, Michigan

The day began in Bayfield, Wisconsin with a goal of making Marquette, Michigan by early evening. A direct route is just over 200 miles, or about four to five hours of leisurely driving. But as I was circling Lake Superior, bypassing Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula seemed like cheating. Including a run up to Copper Harbor at the northern point of the peninsula only added another 165 miles while also keeping true to the circle lakeshore route. No sweat, right? But I was overlooking two key factors: (1) a trip like this, by design, isn't just about quickly getting from point A to point B, and (2) daylight is much shorter in October than in, say, late June.



Nee-Gaw-Nee-Gaw-Bow

 By mid-morning I was only as far as Wakefield, Michigan where I came across an imposing wood sculpture by Peter Wolf Toth. The twenty-foot Nee-Gaw-Nee-Gaw-Bow (which means "Leading Man") is one in a series of Toth sculptures honoring Native Americans. But Wakefield is inland, and I wanted to get back waterside for a lunch along the shore of Lake Superior. So, I diverted north from my car's GPS suggested route to the village of Silver City, Michigan. This area offered classic Great Lakes shoreline, with a pebble beach heavily decorated with driftwood, and was certainly worth the diversion. When my picnic lunch was complete I realized my actual progress was not keeping up with my planned progress. It was time to pick up the pace.

Keweenaw Snow-Mometer

I found my way back to the recommended route and on towards the city of Houghton. At Houghton I crossed over Portage Lake and into the town of Hancock. Somewhere between Hancock and Copper Harbor I came across a curiosity known as the Keweenaw Snow-mometer , a measuring gauge recording various years lake effect annual snow levels. I was astounded at the record 1978-1979 seasonal total of over 390 inches (yes, that's more than 32 feet of snow!).

Eagle Harbor Light - Eagle Harbor, Michigan

Nearing the northern reaches of the peninsula the road narrowed significantly and became quite curvy as it wound through the woods under a brilliant canopy of autumnal reds and oranges. After this grand scene, reaching the apex point of Copper Harbor felt somewhat anti-climatic. With no time to waste I double-backed slightly through the Eagle Harbor area where I discovered a great little lighthouse. It was here that I realized just how far off my timing had strayed from plan. It was already late afternoon with maybe just another hour or two of daylight. And I still had well over 100 miles to reach Marquette. By the time I arrived back in Houghton the sun was done, and I knew I'd have a scenery blackout for the remainder of this segment. But while I sacrificed fully seeing the whole route that day, at least I can proudly say I didn't take shortcuts on the grand Lake Superior Circle Tour.

Good Morning, Bayfield

Location Coordinates:
46°48'41"N
90°49'13"W
Bayfield, Wisconsin

Crowning the northern portion of the state of Wisconsin lies a triangular piece of land known as the Bayfield Peninsula. Jutting its way into the southern waters of Lake Superior, the peninsula consists of broad forests of deciduous trees such as maples, oaks, and birch along with coniferous stands of jack pine, spruce, and balsam fir. Here and there between the forests are open areas where well-maintained farms grace either side of Highway 13, the primary route which serves as a connector for the peninsula's small communities. It was here that I began my long anticipated Lake Superior Circle Tour when I turned north onto Highway 13 shortly after leaving the port cities of Duluth-Superior. The route was enhanced by the fact it appeared my timing was catching the fall color in this area at its peak. The reds and golds and oranges mixed in with the pines deep greens as I headed first in a northeasterly direction, and then in a southerly direction from the town of Red Cliff towards my first destination at Bayfield.

Years ago, long before I lived in proximity to this region, I had briefly passed through Bayfield and thought then the quaint community would be worth a return visit. I had remembered Bayfield as looking like a New England coastal community. But arriving on this trip, my thought was the town did not resemble New England, but instead was definitely reflective of the Great Lakes, just minus the ore boats. I checked into The Bayfield Inn , located right on the marina and lake shore, and set out to have a look around.

Promenade along the marina waterfront

After having strolled by some of the shops and a quick dinner at a local inn, I rounded out the day exploring the marina and taking in the view of nearby Madeline Island. By now the sun had set, and I soon found that on a weeknight in October, Bayfield is quiet. Really, really quiet. So quiet, in fact, that I felt my footsteps on the pavement were easily being heard and monitored by the townsfolk that had clearly settled snugly indoors for the night. Always wanting to fit in with the locals, I decided I'd better head back to my room. It was 7:00 pm. So much for Bayfield nightlife.

Sunrise over Madeline Island

The next morning I was up before the sun and grabbed the camera for a little sunrise photography. As the sun came over the horizon of Madeline Island lying to Bayfield's east I was treated to a beautiful unveiling of the picturesque community decked out in autumn splendor. Positioning myself in various spots along the marina I snapped away in the crisp morning air, and I felt invigorated by all the changing colors and moods as the sun made it's slow rise. I watched the first morning arrival of the Madeline Island Ferry from the island community of La Pointe, which is located about 2.5 miles across the lake from Bayfield. What a great way to start the day!

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore Visitor Center

It was then time to move on to the next segment of the circle tour. But before leaving Bayfield I stopped at the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore visitor center. I had not built in enough time on this trip to make the excursion to the Apostle Islands. That is a trip in and of itself. But the friendly staff at the visitor center gave me great information so that I could plan a return trip to focus just on the islands. And next spring I plan to do just that.

Ozarks Solitude at War Eagle Mill

Location Coordinates:
36°16'19"N,
93°56'35"W
War Eagle Mill,
Benton County,
Arkansas

Summer heat has faded, humidity levels have become reasonable again, and you can definitely feel the seasonal change in the air. It is a great time of year to jump in the car, roll the windows down, and hit the road to explore the countryside during this bridge between summer and autumn. I recently traveled to Northwest Arkansas and made as a destination the War Eagle Mill, a place that was a favorite of mine during the years I spent living in this part of the country.

Mill and bridge over War Eagle Creek

Just east of the city of Rogers, scenic Highway 12 crosses over Beaver Lake and then begins a winding course through heavily wooded hills. The woods are primarily oak, and in a few weeks time the area will be a sea of deep maroons, yellows, and browns as the trees transition through the fall. But in mid-September these Ozarks woods are still lush and green. The weather was rainy during my drive, but this was not a hindrance. In fact, the showers actually added to the beauty of the region as the clouds wafted through the hills and trees.

Mist over War Eagle creek as geese graze

The current fully operational mill is the fourth in a series of mills built on this site since 1832. It is situated on the War Eagle Creek in a most serene and beautiful valley. Over the years, I've visited the mill many times. On rainy days like this most recent visit I usually have the place all to myself. I've also been out during a time when fluffy snowflakes were falling, providing a pleasing contrast to the red mill. During the later fall season the valley is especially pretty, and ground fog is a common occurrence floating through the russet-colored woods.

Old implements hanging on an out building

There is one time each year, however, that the mill is anything but peaceful. The annual War Eagle Craft Fair draws literally thousands of craft enthusiasts for a long October weekend each year. Craft exhibitor and fair food booths jam both sides of War Eagle Creek in and around the mill, and the little valley takes on a completely different personality. The fresh smell of the woods is replaced by the greasy smell of fried onion blossoms and grilled burgers. The lulling sound of the mill's water wheel is overshadowed by the excited banter of groups of crafters (often dressed in brightly colored craft sweatshirts or sweaters). If you are in to this sort of thing, I understand the War Eagle Fair is one of the premier events on the craft fair circuit.

A quiet place . . .

The entire Ozarks region of southern Missouri and northwestern Arkansas offers some spectacular scenery. War Eagle Mill seems to package all of the appealing qualities of the Ozarks into one location. Hills, valleys, creeks, woods, and a gracefully turning water wheel quietly milling grain and flour. It is a great spot for anyone seeking a little refuge from the frenetic pace of the world today.

Surprise Find at Amnicon Falls State Park

Nature's Tic-Tac-Toe

Location Coordinates:
46°36'50"N,
91°53'58"W
Amnicon Falls
State Park
near Superior, WI

It was an exploration weekend, one of those "not sure where I'm going but I'll know it when I find it" trips. The first day was spent motoring the scenic highways of northern Minnesota, stopping at historical markers and overlooks, and later having a picnic lunch while watching pontoons and ski boats on one of the several dozen lakes along the path. It was all fine and entertaining, but there were no real dazzling discoveries made. Day two started out much the same way; all very pleasant, and yet still nothing of the attention-grabbing variety that I was seeking. By noon on the second day I began to think the trip might be one of those that just kind of fizzles out, so I decided to simply head for home. As I always try to see new territory whenever possible, I opted to go a little off the direct path down the interstate and crossed over into Wisconsin to take scenic Highway 53 back south. This diversion changed the trip's mood from mediocrity to excitement.

On of the several falls along the Amnicon River

At the intersection of Highway 2 and Highway 53, about 15 miles southeast of downtown Superior, I spotted the sign for Amnicon Falls State Park. As it was mid-day this seemed a perfect place to stop for lunch. But I soon realized this was not going to be an ordinary lunch stop. As you enter the park you see a small set of rapids on the Amnicon River as it flows toward Lake Superior. Down the park road just a bit further were sets of picnic tables, most of which were unoccupied, which overlooked scenic spots near the series of small waterfalls along the river's course.

Pathway on the island

The park's landscape appeared dissimilar to the surrounding countryside, which tended more to farmland and open pasture interspersed with stands of woods. In contrast, the park itself felt more reminiscent of a higher elevation mountainous location. Pine needles carpeted the ground in the picnic areas, and the sound of the rushing river as it cascaded over the various falls allowed my mind to think the air felt just a bit crisper and smelled a little fresher than just outside the park boundaries.

Covered bridge to the island

It was perfect weather on a beautiful summer day, and yet the park was not overrun with people as you might expect. I had a peaceful lunch at a secluded table beside the roaring river. After eating I made my way across a pretty covered bridge onto an island formed by a split of the river. I meandered a while on the island enjoying the trees and the sound of the water, which grew more distant the further I walked. But as I had only planned a lunch stop, my time was running out, and I needed to get back on the road to get home at a decent time.

Toadstool in the spotlight

Before leaving the park I decided to check out the campsites. I am not particularly fond of camping, as it seems to me to represent a lot of effort to achieve a great deal of discomfort. However, I found the campground so appealing, with its very private and heavily wooded individual campsites, that I promised my wife we would come back for a camping weekend. That's impressive for this tried-and-true hotel patron.

Baby pine coming up from the forest floor

Amnicon Falls State Park rendered the whole weekend trip a success. You never know what you'll find when you stray off your normal path. I'd have never discovered this northern Wisconsin gem if I had given in to temptation to simply follow the regular path home. Such are the rewards for those who dare to never take the same way twice.

Dog Days Drive Along the Mississippi

Location Coordinates:
44°30'70"W,
92°21'24"W
Along the Mississippi River
near Stockholm, Wisconsin
 
The expression "Dog Days" can be traced back to ancient Rome, and is generally used as a reference to the hottest, most sultry days of summer. If you live anywhere east of the Rockies, you could fairly refer to the entire month of July as the summer of 2011's Dog Days. All time heat records were set in many locations on an almost daily basis. Here in the Upper Midwest the big story was incredibly high humidity levels, which made enjoying the outdoors quite an uncomfortable endeavor. As July moved into August the hot, stagnant weather pattern finally broke allowing temperatures to fall to more typically pleasant levels. After a month or so of my self-imposed restriction to the comforts of air-conditioned environments, the idea of a leisurely scenic drive in the much improved weather sounded grand.

Dog Days of Stockholm attendee

I crossed the Mississippi River at Prescott, Wisconsin and turned south on Highway 35. Near the town of Bay City the road begins to hug the shore of Lake Pepin, a large widening of the Mississippi River formed by the sedimentary deposits of the Chippewa River where it meets the Mississippi some thirty miles south. The winding route was very pretty, with open farmland and patches of woods intermixed between the river bluffs and the lake shore. Lake Pepin was alive with activity: sailboats, fishing boats, jet skis jumping the wakes of power boats pulling traditional water skiers. It was the picture of a perfect summer day.

Dog Days of Stockholm attendees

About the mid-point of the drive along the eastern shore of Lake Pepin is the village of Stockholm, Wisconsin - population 97. As I approached the northern end of the little town I was curious as to why a village of only 97 residents would have a main street jammed with traffic and parked cars. At the town's only intersection I glanced to my right and discovered the source of the population swell. The 2nd annual Dog Days of Stockholm festival was in high gear. I decided to stop and check it out. Expecting to find a small community summer craft fair, I was surprised to find the Dog Days of Stockholm was quite literally about dogs. A celebration of all things dog, you could take in activities such as a dog herding exhibit, attend the "blessing of the pups", witness a doggy acupuncture treatment, or listen to experts giving tips on dog nutrition. If you didn't have a dog upon entry you could even remedy the situation by visiting with rescued dogs in need of permanent homes. I don't have a dog, but I still found the festival interesting and decided to hang out a while and have some lunch. My lunch selection? A hot dog - of course.



Lake Pepin

 Moving on after lunch I crossed the Chippewa River and Lake Pepin morphed back to being just the Mississippi River again. When I reached the town of Nelson, Wisconsin I found another large crowd. This time the attraction was The Original Nelson Cheese Factory, also known as the Nelson Creamery. I stopped, went inside, and immediately discovered why everyone else driving the route had stopped as well. Inside the ivy-covered building were gourmet goodies imported from around the world, including fine wines. And of course there was a large selection of Wisconsin cheeses. I opted for a simple ice cream cone, which I enjoyed outside while watching a nearby farmer work his field.



Nelson Creamery - Nelson, WI

 My drive was just a small portion of the very scenic route along the Mississippi River, and it inspired me to start plans for more excursions further downriver. It was also a welcome reminder that during this summer of oppressive heat, frustrating political gridlock, and economic worries that simple summer joys like dog shows and ice cream cones are still out there to be experienced and enjoyed.

Ville de Québec

Location Coordinates:
46°49'N, 71°13'W
Québec City, Québec
Canada

If you are a Francophile, but the thought of enduring an eight to ten hour flight across the Atlantic to France leaves you uninspired, then you need to visit our neighbors to the north in Québec. To give cultural credit its due, Québec City is definitely French Canadian. But the feel of the city is undeniably European. The spoken language is strictly French, as are all signs, menus and, well - everything. Strolling any of the streets in Vieux-Québec (Old Québec) is virtually the same experience as wandering down an avenue in Paris.

Lower Town

Old Québec is separated into two areas, Haute-Ville (Upper Town) and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). I began my visit in Lower Town meandering along winding streets, dropping into interesting-looking stores and taking in the old world ambiance. When I was ready to investigate Upper Town I had a choice to make. I could climb the rather numerous steps, or I could pay a few dollars and ride the Old Québec Funicular. The decision was an easy one, and I soon was gliding up an incredibly steep angle while being treated to a view of the Lower Town that improved with each and every one of the fifty-nine metres (about 195 feet) we climbed.

Chateau Frontenac

When the funicular stopped in Upper Town I found myself near the iconic Château Frontenac, a grand hotel sitting on the most prominent point of the city. The exterior of the hotel was, of course, under refurbishment, rendering it slightly less impressive than I had hoped. (In my travels I have come to realize that the one building or attraction that one is eager to see will very likely will be undergoing some type of renovation. I'm sure it is some sort of conspiracy, but I haven't yet figured out who or what to blame.)

Upper Town street scene

From Château Frontenac I followed a long, broad boardwalk along the bluff of Upper Town which provided sweeping views of Lower Town and the St. Lawrence River valley. I then made my way to Rue St-louis and passed through the old fortification walls which separate the old historical city from the modern city. After stopping by Québec's Parliament Building I ventured back into Vieux-Québec and decided to have lunch at a restaurant offering a table by a full-length open window. The food was fine, however the service was also typically French. In other words, the server seemed to feel she was doing me a favor by taking my order, and I had to nearly perform a floor show to get her attention so that she would bring the bill.

Side street in Upper Town

After lunch there was time for more street strolling and shop visiting. When I found a store on Rue Sous-le-fort that offered Italian gelato I stepped inside for a cone of my favorite lemon flavor. I bought a cone from a very friendly young salesclerk, but not before witnessing a cringe-worthy example of the Ugly Americans. A couple in line in front of me insisted on paying for their gelato with U.S. Dollars, which the clerk willingly accepted. But the couple became quite rude and irate when the clerk informed them she could only provide change in Canadian currency. The American couple made quite a spectacle of themselves, and as a traveling American myself I was embarrassed at this selfish and insensitive behavior. The clerk handled the situation with extreme courtesy and tact, which unfortunately means she likely deals frequently with similar rude Americans on the same issue. So here is my plea to fellow Americans: if you travel in Canada, please be respectful and stop at an ATM for Canadian currency. After all, how successful would a Canadian citizen be if he or she slapped down a Canadian bill to pay for a McDonald's Big Mac in downtown Chicago? Not very.


My day in Québec City exceeded my expectations. What I appreciated most about Québec was the opportunity to spend time in a completely different culture surrounded by amazing European architecture while still being relatively close to home. And for that I say to the Québécois, merci beaucoup, mes amis.

Charlottetown Charm



Weather vane in Charlottetown Harbour



Location Coordinates:

46°14'00"N

63°09'00"W

Charlottetown,

Prince Edward Island

Canada

     So, what do Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island have in common? Certainly not size. Metro Philly has a population of roughly six million versus Charlottetown's total of about 58,000. But both cities have the common historical characteristic of being the birthplace of their respective countries. Philadelphia was the site of the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1776, and in 1864 Charlottetown hosted the Charlottetown Conference, the initiation of talks to form the Confederation of Canada. And while Charlottetown is significantly smaller than its U.S. counterpart, it certainly is not lacking when it comes to appeal and personality.


Historic architecture of downtown





     Charlottetown makes a great first impression. I arrived by sea, and therefore my initial contact was at the port and marine terminal where I was greeted by a warm and welcoming group of traveler's aide workers. I opted to take a sightseeing tour by bus in order to get a quick overview of the city. Something immediately noticeable is the people of Charlottetown obviously take pride in their community, homes, and civic buildings. Everything was beautifully landscaped and meticulously maintained, from the city centre to the outlying areas. The downtown core exudes charm in its preserved historical architecture, and the businesses I visited were staffed by the friendliest people imaginable.

Stately homes near downtown

     When the bus tour was complete I headed out on foot to check out areas that had caught my eye earlier. One stop along the path was a unique knitwear store that appealed to me on several levels. First of all, the store owner features the work of dozens of local craftsmen and artisans, something I look very favorable upon. But what was truly unique about Northern Watters Knitwear was the fact their beautiful knit garments are manufactured on site. In the back of the store was a crew of about five people patiently operating 100-year-old antique knitting looms. The resulting sweaters, scarves, hats, and other various knit items were a level of quality that I'm sure cannot be beat. The store owner made it a point to personally welcome and speak with each and every visitor to his store. It was obvious he felt a well-deserved pride for his business.

Prince Edward Battery - Victoria Park

     On the west side of downtown is pretty Victoria Park, which also includes the Prince Edward Battery fortification facing the harbour. I had a peaceful (albeit chilly) lunch here before walking back into downtown along a boardwalk path. It was then time for me to decide if I would partake in a vital ritual for all visitors to Charlottetown: a cone from Cows Ice Cream. Charlottetown-based Cows was voted "Canada's best ice cream", and you can hardly turn around without someone or something pointing you in the direction of a Cows store. As I had already splurged on another Charlottetown treat by eating a small bag of chocolate covered potato chips (don't be disgusted - they are really, really good!), I ultimately decided it would be best for me to skip the ice cream.

St. Dunstan's Basilica

     Although my time was limited, Canada's smallest province made a significant impression on me. I would love to return for an extended visit to explore the whole of the island. But, as there are far too many places to go and far too little time to see them all, I may have to wait a while for that return trip. Even so, Charlottetown, PEI joins the ranks of my favorite Right Latitudes.