The Brief and Brilliant Season

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

Location coordinates:
Multiple in Minnesota,
Connecticut, and
Massachusetts

Autumn. What a great time of year. Hot weather has melted away into cool, crisp mornings. The angle of the sun shifts, casting a softer, warmer glow over the landscape. A walk around the neighborhood can find you caught up in a blizzard of leaves coming down in a fresh breeze. Apple orchards fill with families seeking hay rides followed by cups of hot cider and warm apple pie with cinnamon ice cream. Gourds and pumpkins, football teams and baseball playoffs, sweatshirts and sweaters. It is the calm and beautiful season before the rush and thrill of the Holidays.

 

Maple leaves, Norfolk, Connecticut

In the south, an autumn enthusiast waits, and waits, and waits for the first signs of the season in the trees. It finally arrives in mid to late October with a sudden flash of dazzling color which all too quickly dissolves to the browns and grays of winter. In the north, the season sometimes stretches longer, with yellows and oranges showing up as early as late August. North or south, fall is like anticipating a fireworks show as you wonder what nature has in store each year.

Along Route 23, western Massachusetts

During the autumn of 2008 I lived in Boston, where my favorite season seems longer than any other place I've lived. It started in August and little by little became more colorful each day well into November. On a cloudy October day I took a drive through western Massachusetts and northern Connecticut and found storybook images. There really is nothing like New England in the fall.

White birch, Finlayson, Minnesota

In Minnesota it seems just about anything goes. In 2009 color didn't peak until the week before Halloween - after we had already endured three snow events. But last year's early snow seemed to only enhance the brightness of the yellows and reds. This year has been warmer and dryer with not a trace of snow so far. And even though this autumn has been as pretty as a picture from a coffee table photo book, I believe last year was better.

St. Croix River near Stillwater, Minnesota

All too soon the comforts of autumn will fade. The trees will become barren, temperatures will continue to drop, outdoor furniture will be stored, and daylight will dwindle. But not to worry. Next up - Thanksgiving and the Holidays. Yep, this is by far the best time of the year.

The Great Inland Port

Location coordinates:
46°46'48"N,
 92°05'28W
Canal Park

Duluth, Minnesota

 
Feeling the need for a "big lake fix" along the shore of Lake Superior, I drove north the other day with the goal of not only taking in my favorite lake, but also enjoying some fall leaf-peeping. Seasonal color north of the Twin Cities is typically at its best in late September and early October. The reds, oranges and yellows were at or near peak on this particular day, which made the drive up Interstate 35 especially pleasing. The scenery was brilliant as I dropped down into Duluth, where I-35 transitions to scenic Highway 61 which follows the Lake Superior shoreline on up to the Canadian border. In previous journeys north my impression of Duluth was that it was simply a hurdle to get through on my way to more interesting places further north. Turns out I was wrong. This trip I decided to park and have a look around, and I'm very glad I did.

 

After scouring the car to find enough change to feed the parking meter, I found my way to a pedestrian boardwalk and bike path that followed the lakeshore. I had a choice to make: walk west toward downtown or east toward the canal and Aerial Lift Bridge and Canal Park. I decided to first investigate downtown. Duluth is located at the westernmost point of Lake Superior, and there is a steep shift in elevation from the lake to the inland area. Geographically speaking, it reminded me of a stadium with rows and aisles (street grids) rising up and away from a playing field (downtown and the lakefront). Many of the residential neighborhoods are blessed with impressive views of the lake as they ascend from the downtown core. Perhaps these grand views are of some consolation to residents who must endure the biting winter chill of one of America's most vigorous climates!



Duluth North Pierhead Lighthouse

 After admiring the interesting architecture downtown, I returned to the lakefront boardwalk and walked east toward Canal Park, named for the canal that allows ships to pass from the lake into the port. Once an industrial and warehouse district, this region has now been converted into a vibrant tourist and entertainment destination with pleasant lakefront hotels and numerous restaurants. My stroll eventually led me down a breakwater to the North Pierhead Lighthouse, where I was rewarded with a front row seat to observe a huge freighter as it passed through the canal on its way out into Lake Superior.

All in all, I was quite pleasantly surprised by what I found in Duluth, and my three hour diversion served to favorably alter my impression of the city. Knowing now what Duluth has to offer I'll be less inclined to simply blow through town on my way up the north shore of Superior.

Butterflies and Fountains

Location coordinates:
44°55'39"N, 93°17'45"W
Lyndale Park
Minneapolis, Minnesota

I live in a wondrous place. I can look out the window of my upstairs home office and see Lyndale Farmstead Park across the street to the north. There is the beautiful and historic Lakewood Cemetery across the street to the west. And just a block to the south lies yet another park, Lyndale Park, that features a rose garden, a perennial garden, a peace garden, and a bird sanctuary. Walking or biking through Lyndale Park brings you to the eastern shore of Lake Harriet, of which I've made several earlier blog entries. This collection of wonderment literally steps from my front door is my home base, and it provides a terrific venue for a new photographer to practice.

A few days ago I ventured out during the hour just prior to sunset to capture the warm end-of-day lighting. My goal was to photograph a bench that sets off by itself. I love photographing benches, and this particular bench has caught my eye many times during the year, as it seems to provide a serene setting in which to gaze off toward two large maple trees currently dawning their vivid red colors of the season. When I arrived at the bench, however, the lighting angle simply wasn't complimentary enough to the scene to produce the type of shot I desired. So I wandered off in another direction looking for anything else of interest. As luck would have it, a perky little monarch butterfly was kind enough to pose for a few shots.



Phelps Fountain

 Given the fact it was near to sundown, the mosquitoes were on the prowl. Although I had prepared by dousing myself in insect repellent, I observed a small squadron of the pests making their way my direction and I didn't want to take any chances. I left Madame Butterfly behind and walked toward the rose and perennial gardens. The next thing to catch my eye was the Phelps Fountain, one of two historic fountains located in the gardens. It occurred to me that very soon these fountains will literally be enclosed in a plywood housing to protect them from the cold winter weather. This fact made me appreciate the water patterns shimmering in the setting sun all the more.



Phelps Fountain

 While taking in the charm of the fountain I felt that always-annoying piercing itch of a mosquito who had managed to penetrate the defense barrier of the bug repellent. I decided it was best to pack up the tripod and head for home. As I did I looked around and considered the fact that within the next few weeks the gardens will end their season and the Minneapolis Parks staff would be packing the rose bushes in a thick layer of leaves as protection from snow and ice. The parks will take on a whole different look, and I'll be there to capture it all.

Good Grief, Charlie Brown

Schroeder and Lucy

Location coordinates:
44°56'44"N,
93°05'47"W
Landmark Plaza
St. Paul, Minnesota

When I was growing up one of my favorite things about the fall and holiday seasons were the Peanuts specials on TV. As September moved into October I began my ritual monitoring of the TV Guide for the network airing of these shows. First up was It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown. Halloween just wouldn't have been Halloween without cheering on Linus in his quest to see The Great Pumpkin and Charlie Brown's woeful expression of "I got a rock" compared to his friend's candy each time they went trick-or-treating. Then came A Charlie Brown Thanksgiving where we all laughed at Charlie Brown's lack of culinary skill as he offered up buttered toast as a Thanksgiving dinner. Rounding out the holiday season was A Charlie Brown Christmas, causing us to wonder along with the rest of the Peanuts gang just why Charlie Brown chose that dead, scrawny little Christmas tree.

Charles M. Schulz, creator of the Peanuts comic strip, was born in Minneapolis and grew up in St. Paul. Schulz left Minnesota for California in his mid-thirties, but his influence is still seen around the Twin Cities even today. And Minnesota certainly influenced Charles Schulz. As I watched those shows as a child I had no idea that I would eventually live in the birthplace of the Peanuts gang. In fact, the location setting for Charlie Brown's hometown was based on the Linden Hills neighborhood in southwest Minneapolis, which adjoins my own neighborhood of East Harriet Farmstead.

Charlie Brown and Snoopy

Wandering around downtown St. Paul the other day I came across these bronze statues of several of the Peanuts gang hanging out in the area around Landmark Center and Rice Park. You can't help but feel transported back to those happy childhood memories as you come across these figures in the heart of the city. So, does achieving middle age, coupled with the fact my children are now grown adults, mean that I've put the Charlie Brown shows behind me? Not a chance. And I'll bet I'm not the only middle-aged guy wanting to step back and spend a few minutes reliving those simple holiday memories. I could go out and buy the DVD sets, but it might be more fun to simply keep an eye on the TV listings - just like the good ole' days.

The Elf House

Location Coordinates:
44°54'57"N, 93°18'36"W
Lake Harriet, south shore
Minneapolis, Minnesota

I've been biking around the shores of Lake Harriet for over a year now, so from a purely logical point of view I should be completely familiar with all the characteristics of this popular southwest Minneapolis destination. But, proving the opposite of the old adage "you can't see the forest for the trees", I may have been caught up in the larger picture and not observed some of the finer details of the Lake Harriet shoreline. Apparently, I've been biking nearly daily just a few feet away from a local phenomenon and never even noticed. The only reason I stumbled upon it a while back was my casual wondering as to why a bunch of children and one or two adults were crouched down near the base of an ordinary looking tree. I wasn't even curious enough then to check it out. It was several days later when, remembering the strange congregation, I interrupted my ride to stop and have a look at the tree. That is when I discovered the Elf House.

Local legend claims that if a child leaves a note for the resident elf, he or she will receive a personal written response by said elf. Unless, of course, it is during the colder months when the elf evidently flees south to his "east castle" in Florida.

Mr. Elf appeared to be out on the occasion of my visit. Perhaps he was having a swim in the lake. Or, noting the autumn-colored leaf placed on his door, he was working with his travel agent in arranging passage for the annual trip to his Florida winter residence. But I did notice several notes waiting for him along with a strand of blue beads, possibly a gift left by a thoughtful child wishing him well until next spring's warmer weather. One can only speculate what wisdom Mr. Elf imparts in his responses to his inquiring visitors, but I've read the diminutive gentleman has a pleasing sense of humor. Having not prepared a note or gift to leave behind (as well as understanding my age was well above his target demographic), I thought it best to continue on my daily ride.

 So even though I didn't have the good fortune to meet Mr. Elf personally, his mere presence reminds me how you can look at something every single day and not ever see it. So I'll try to slow down and keep a look out for some of those less obvious elements of our everyday world. Because it is often those little things that end up being surprisingly captivating.

Pronto Pups and Cheese Curds

Location coordinates:
44°58'42"N, 93°10'25"W
Minnesota State Fairgrounds
Falcon Heights, Minnesota

As summer draws to a close here in Minnesota there seems to be two things you can count on to mark the beginning of the summer to fall transition. First, any drop of temperature below 80 degrees seems to put many into a disheartened state of mind as they ponder the certainty of cold weather to come. Eager TV meteorologists tend to forecast daily highs much warmer than what is actually realized in what appears to be an attempt to mollify viewers into a false sense of an extended summer. This is something I personally find annoying, as I can't wait for summer's heat to be replaced by cool, crisp autumn days. The second end of summer indicator is what is referred to locally as "The Great Minnesota Get-Together", the Minnesota State Fair. The fairgrounds, located equidistant between the cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul, is home to one of the highest attended state fairs in the United States. I skipped the Fair last year but decided it was something I had to experience this year.

The day was overcast, windy, and only in the upper 50s which, for me, was perfect fair weather. I chose to ride an express bus to the fairgrounds from one of dozens of locations around the metro area offering round trip rides. As we approached the Fair I immediately discovered why using the bus service is highly advised. The volume of vehicular traffic was staggering. I was exceedingly happy to be dropped off at the gate following the hassle-free bus ride.

My first stop was the Miracle of Birth exhibit. The interior of the exhibit was crammed with all shapes and sizes of humanity, which made actually viewing the cute little baby calves or piglets almost impossible. I located a set of bleachers and climbed up to the top to get an elevated view above the hordes. Once there I was able to get a shot of a single little piglet being warmed by a heat lamp. I next wandered into the Cattle Barn and "Moo Booth" where I quickly realized that viewing the back ends of lazing farm animals was not overly entertaining.

Then it was on to the main midway where I was dazzled by all the colors and rides, the majority of which seemed to have as a singular goal the expulsion of the rider's lunch. Which brings me to what obviously is the primary reason for visiting the fair: the unbelievable assortment of food. Pronto Pups (like a corn dog only with a pancake-like covering versus a cornmeal covering), roasted corn, cheese curds, buckets (literally!) of chocolate chip cookies, sugary mini-donuts, honey ice cream, foot long dogs, fried candy bars, Spam burgers, and on and on and on. Much of the food was offered "on-a-stick", which made it easy to eat on the run as you made your way toward the next food booth. I sampled a few things, none of which I determined I couldn't live without. My biggest sampling surprise was at the booth hosted by the Minnesota Farm Winery Association, where I found an especially tasty dry red wine from the St. Croix Vineyards. Minnesota wine! Who knew?

I'm not sure I'll be a fairgoer every year, but I'm quite glad I had the opportunity this year to attend "The Great Minnesota Get-Together".

California Sunsets

Location Coordinates:
33°12'11"N, 117°23'31"W
Oceanside, California

 
As a native of southern California, there are two things I have greatly missed since I left the state some thirty years ago: first-rate Mexican food, and beach sunsets. Of course, I can find both of these things in other places. But somehow they simply are not quite the same (for me, anyway) as they are in California. Each time I fly out to visit family I make sure the days include at least one Mexican restaurant. And I always manage to get to the beach during my stay as well.

I made the California trip again last week. However, the occasion was somber: attendance at a family member's funeral. It was an emotional and difficult week. Adding to an already unpleasant atmosphere was a summer heat wave which sent temperatures in the inland valleys and deserts, where we were, into the 100s. By the end of the week I needed to escape both the heavy emotions and blistering temperatures. I decided a beach run was a perfect pick-me-up destination. My mother and oldest daughter, Sarah, decided to join me. I pointed the car south, not knowing exactly which beach to head toward. As we meandered along less-traveled state highways we decided to head in the direction of the La Jolla area north of San Diego, where we anticipated we could enjoy a nice seafood dinner overlooking the ocean. But after driving only a few minutes I could tell I was not really in the frame of mind to go all the way to San Diego and back.

We eventually found our way to Oceanside, about forty miles north of San Diego. The change in temperature ( a drop of about twenty-five degrees) and the salty ocean air worked wonders for improving our moods. We found a seafood restaurant overlooking the harbor, and followed dinner with a sunset stroll on the beach. My sandals came off immediately and my inner beach kid pulled me straight toward the water. When the first wave hit my exposed legs I felt as though the wind had been knocked out of me. The icy water was quite literally painful! But, just the same as when I was a kid, my skin numbed to the coldness, and I stood in knee-high water shooting photographs as the sun sank into the Pacific.

One of my favorite Jimmy Buffett songs is Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes, which could have been our theme song for this beach excursion. Simply changing our latitude let us briefly break away from the intense emotions and oppressive heat we left behind. It was a natural therapy far more effective than anything a pharmaceutical company could develop.