Head of the Charles



Rowers in front of the Newell Boat House

 Location coordinates:
42°22'11"N,
71°07'23"W
Boston/Cambridge, Massachusetts

A little more than ten years ago I began what could be described as an obsession with the city of Boston. My first trip to The Hub (one of Boston's nicknames) was a three-hour stopover during a southern New England excursion Chrys and I made in 1987. My second visit was a fairly stressful business junket there in 1996. But these brief early trips planted the seed, and from late 1999 on we have traveled to Boston several times each year, and even lived there in 2008/2009 prior to our move to Minnesota. I've now spent so much time in Boston that I will always consider the city my second home. While living there during the fall of 2008 we were looking for things to do during a visit by our daughter Rachel. Chrys noted the Head of the Charles Rowing Regatta was scheduled that weekend and was to be held on the Charles River near the Harvard campus. As that was close to home, and thinking that activity would represent a perfect New England experience, we decided to check it out. We ended up having such a great time that we now have made the regatta an annual tradition, even though we have never participated in organized rowing ourselves. This past weekend marked our third Head of the Charles Regatta.

Rowing teams from all over the world participate in the event on the Charles River, which delineates Cambridge on the north bank and Boston on the south bank. Individual and team participants come from high school and collegiate crew teams as well as private rowing clubs. Competitors range in age from youth to athletes in their 80s. The bulk of the action takes place in and around the John W. Weeks bridge, a footbridge which links Harvard's main campus in Cambridge with the Harvard Business School and athletic facilities which lie on the Boston side of the river. It is a festive atmosphere with booths selling crew-themed apparel and food along the river banks where spectators cheer on their favorites. The setting can't be beat: rowers skimming over the river against a backdrop of Cambridge's colonial-era architecture, fall-colored trees, tasty "fair food", and crisp autumn air.

The sights off the water are often as interesting as those on the water. Groups of dapper English rowers decked out in their very British navy rowing blazers mix with American college groups in their team sweatshirts. Well-dressed Ivy League alumni cheer their school teams alongside average Joe spectators like me with no particular team affiliation. This year one of the more interesting non-rowing sights was the imaginative way one particular bicyclist found to secure his or her bike high above the crowds. I wonder how he or she was able to hold that bike aloft while securing it to the tree??



Competing rowers against the Boston skyline

 The Head of the Charles Regatta is just one of the events that keep me traveling back to Boston on a regular basis. I'm always happy when I'm there, and I'll likely write about many more of my favorite Boston "latitudes" in posts to come.

The Brief and Brilliant Season

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

Location coordinates:
Multiple in Minnesota,
Connecticut, and
Massachusetts

Autumn. What a great time of year. Hot weather has melted away into cool, crisp mornings. The angle of the sun shifts, casting a softer, warmer glow over the landscape. A walk around the neighborhood can find you caught up in a blizzard of leaves coming down in a fresh breeze. Apple orchards fill with families seeking hay rides followed by cups of hot cider and warm apple pie with cinnamon ice cream. Gourds and pumpkins, football teams and baseball playoffs, sweatshirts and sweaters. It is the calm and beautiful season before the rush and thrill of the Holidays.

 

Maple leaves, Norfolk, Connecticut

In the south, an autumn enthusiast waits, and waits, and waits for the first signs of the season in the trees. It finally arrives in mid to late October with a sudden flash of dazzling color which all too quickly dissolves to the browns and grays of winter. In the north, the season sometimes stretches longer, with yellows and oranges showing up as early as late August. North or south, fall is like anticipating a fireworks show as you wonder what nature has in store each year.

Along Route 23, western Massachusetts

During the autumn of 2008 I lived in Boston, where my favorite season seems longer than any other place I've lived. It started in August and little by little became more colorful each day well into November. On a cloudy October day I took a drive through western Massachusetts and northern Connecticut and found storybook images. There really is nothing like New England in the fall.

White birch, Finlayson, Minnesota

In Minnesota it seems just about anything goes. In 2009 color didn't peak until the week before Halloween - after we had already endured three snow events. But last year's early snow seemed to only enhance the brightness of the yellows and reds. This year has been warmer and dryer with not a trace of snow so far. And even though this autumn has been as pretty as a picture from a coffee table photo book, I believe last year was better.

St. Croix River near Stillwater, Minnesota

All too soon the comforts of autumn will fade. The trees will become barren, temperatures will continue to drop, outdoor furniture will be stored, and daylight will dwindle. But not to worry. Next up - Thanksgiving and the Holidays. Yep, this is by far the best time of the year.

The Great Inland Port

Location coordinates:
46°46'48"N,
 92°05'28W
Canal Park

Duluth, Minnesota

 
Feeling the need for a "big lake fix" along the shore of Lake Superior, I drove north the other day with the goal of not only taking in my favorite lake, but also enjoying some fall leaf-peeping. Seasonal color north of the Twin Cities is typically at its best in late September and early October. The reds, oranges and yellows were at or near peak on this particular day, which made the drive up Interstate 35 especially pleasing. The scenery was brilliant as I dropped down into Duluth, where I-35 transitions to scenic Highway 61 which follows the Lake Superior shoreline on up to the Canadian border. In previous journeys north my impression of Duluth was that it was simply a hurdle to get through on my way to more interesting places further north. Turns out I was wrong. This trip I decided to park and have a look around, and I'm very glad I did.

 

After scouring the car to find enough change to feed the parking meter, I found my way to a pedestrian boardwalk and bike path that followed the lakeshore. I had a choice to make: walk west toward downtown or east toward the canal and Aerial Lift Bridge and Canal Park. I decided to first investigate downtown. Duluth is located at the westernmost point of Lake Superior, and there is a steep shift in elevation from the lake to the inland area. Geographically speaking, it reminded me of a stadium with rows and aisles (street grids) rising up and away from a playing field (downtown and the lakefront). Many of the residential neighborhoods are blessed with impressive views of the lake as they ascend from the downtown core. Perhaps these grand views are of some consolation to residents who must endure the biting winter chill of one of America's most vigorous climates!



Duluth North Pierhead Lighthouse

 After admiring the interesting architecture downtown, I returned to the lakefront boardwalk and walked east toward Canal Park, named for the canal that allows ships to pass from the lake into the port. Once an industrial and warehouse district, this region has now been converted into a vibrant tourist and entertainment destination with pleasant lakefront hotels and numerous restaurants. My stroll eventually led me down a breakwater to the North Pierhead Lighthouse, where I was rewarded with a front row seat to observe a huge freighter as it passed through the canal on its way out into Lake Superior.

All in all, I was quite pleasantly surprised by what I found in Duluth, and my three hour diversion served to favorably alter my impression of the city. Knowing now what Duluth has to offer I'll be less inclined to simply blow through town on my way up the north shore of Superior.